Hi Carl,

On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 12:26:56 EST, [email protected] wrote:

>It appears that if one pulls the plastic end caps from the front panel, has 
> the top cover and bottom panel removed, have the DR7 board out,  then 
>pulls  two of the three screws on each side that the front panel will pull 
>open 
>like a  horizontal hinge......do you have to pull the band switch shaft to 
>the rear to  clear ? 

Yes. Note that there is a grounding spring on the metal partition that must be
positioned properly upon reassembly if you pull the shaft completely out. Which
you don't need to do in order to drop the front panel. Remove the knob and the
two screws from the detent mechanism on the rear panel, and pull the shaft back
just enough to clear the front pane.

>Will the PTO also swing up?

Yes.

>Will this allow access to the mode switch mounting point AND allow me to  
>lube the latching mechanism ?

It should, but there are a LOT of wires there. 
 
>Question two.
>In reference to Garey Barrells (K4OAH) archived comments on  reflowing the 
>main board pin solder, if you have done so, did you have the main  board 
>removed (my guess) , or try to do between the metal  partitions? 

The main board soldering problems I have seen have all been Molex pin
connectors, which you access from the bottom. No need to pull the main board,
for any reason that I can think of. Even the parts of the main board (a.k.a.
"Parent Board") that have parts and circuitry on them are relatively easy to
reach.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

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will learn for a lifetime."

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http://radiojim(dot)exofire(dot)net
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