I don't know if anyone cares but I searched for a long time for led
replacements for the #53 bulbs
that would give the Drake blue color and not look purple or intense
blue. Here's what I came up with
and you can't tell it doesn't have the #53 bulbs in it except I don't
have to remove the DR7 board every
other month to replace the bulb. the bulbs I use are from
SuperBrightLEDs.com part no. Warm White BA9s-WWHP6.
I then added a 220 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with the hot lead
on the bulb to dim it a little.
The bulbs are a BA9 base so they go right in. If the stock blue gels
are ok then the color is the same as with
the #53 bulbs. If the gel is faded I use #854 Roscolene Steel Blue.
If you hold this and the stock Drake blue
gel up to light you can't tell any difference. Now the TR7 looks like
a Drake with the proper color of blue
and the LEDs should last in excess of 100,000 hours instead of 1000
hours for the #53 bulb. The LEDs also draw
a lot less current and don't heat up the PTO.
73, Joe KC9LAD
At 03:32 PM 2/17/2010, you wrote:
OK. Well Don's are a little different, but still a shorted LED
should not blow a fuse. I assume you just soldered the leads to the
old terminals? Possibly a short there.
I prefer the incandescent bulb / Lee Lighting #172 film setup too.
There is a reverse polarity protection diode just past the fuse, and
the supply lines to the PS-7 and ACC connectors are also "downstream".
If It's blowing the fuse, an ohmmeter check should show the situation.
You might have to reverse the ohmmeter leads to beat the polarity diode.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
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