Bill, It has been a few years since I replaced caps in the B or C lines. Whether you remove the defective cap from the topside first or not, it is a messy way to proceed, so I generally worked from below. I found that desoldering the tabs from the chassis is best done with a 150-300 watt soldering iron with a large tip that will still fit among the wiring. Soldering guns don't have the thermal capacity to be able to do this job in a rapid manner. Solder wick helps to remove the solder from the area of the tabs. Too, put something, metal or some high temperature gasket material available at auto stores, between the area to be desoldered and adjacent wiring. Too, cover the other areas of the chassis with cardboard; one blob of hot solder dropped on the chassis can create another problem that you don't need. Because of the above, some prefer to unsolder the leads from the caps, wire in some smaller replacements, and from the topside you'll never know. Best of luck. 73, Evan, K9SQG -----Original Message----- From: Bill Jackson <[email protected]> To: drakelist <[email protected]> Sent: Thu, Jul 8, 2010 9:32 pm Subject: [Drakelist] R-4B Recap Greetings, I am a relative newcomer to boatanchor restoration. So far, the Drakes I have purchased have only required some basic switch cleaning and "detailing" to bring them back to their original glory. I now have an R-4B that requires the installation of a recap kit from the Hayseed Hamfest. I am looking for some advice from the group on the techniques they have used to replace the 4 section can capacitor with the minimal amount of disturbance to the wiring in the radio. I see that 2 of the 4 mounting tabs are soldered to chassis, one of them is tucked under the audio output transformer. I also see that there is a fair amount of wiring that runs by this can. What should I do to make sure I don't booger up the adjacent wiring when unsoldering the can from the chassis? I assume you clip and re-strip the leads you remove from the tabs on the can, rather than trying to unsolder them? Should I unsolder and remove the audio output transformer? Also, are there any good web resources available that can educate me in some of the better techniques in component replacement used by the experts in boatanchor restoration? Thanks! de Bill, K9RZ _______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list [email protected] http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
_______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list [email protected] http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
