My experience is that a bandsaw is best. I have a small Black and Decker table mount bandsaw with a fairly deep throat and the standard metal cutting blade works well and is safe. After cutting you can dress up the edge with a hand file or sander.
Dennis AE6C On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 9:39 AM, Steve Wedge <[email protected]> wrote: > This was foremost in my mind, and Evan has shown what were my suspicions > all along: a tablesaw is not the best tool for the job. > > If you have access, a great tool for this application is a bandsaw with a > fairly fine-toothed blade. Alternatively, try a jigsaw but make sure you > have the workpiece's cut line very close to a solid surface. The > better-quality jigsaws (like Bosch or Milwaukee) will do a better job > because of the smoothness of the oscillating mechanism in the saw. > > FWIW, > > 73, > > Steve, W1ES (a ham and a woodworker) > > >Message: 2 > >Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:36:06 -0400 > >From: [email protected] > >Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Phenolic and Drake Supplies > >To: [email protected], [email protected] > >Message-ID: <[email protected]> > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > >Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, > > > > > >Thanks for all the emails with your comments. Yes, it seems like window > AC filter material might be a good choice for a fan filter. Too, many > surplus electronic houses sell the filter screen for various size fans. > > > > > >Did some experimenting and decided on a design change and process change > as well. I no longer will be using G10 or epoxy fiberglass PC board > material; several reasons for that. As far as cutting phenolic board with a > table saw, my experiences were not favorable. Yes, it is possible to cut > that phenolic but the process is too "demanding" and unsafe for my taste. > The phenolic has to be fed very slowly yet firmly into the table saw. > Because of how brittle the phenolic is, the anti-kickback safety device > basically doesn't grab, thus affording no protection. If there is the > slightest amount of binding, misfeeding with an ever so slight angle to the > blade, etc. one or two things happen. One, the phenolic will split to > varying degrees, and two, one of the two pieces will go sailing in the > direction of the operator. > > > > > >Hence, with a design change, I'm using angle aluminum stock and as for the > phenolic, a hacksaw does a great job in just a few minutes with none of the > problems cited above. > > > > > >When done, I'm going to document this project, possibly in one of the ham > magazines, possibly online, etc. > > > > > >Enjoy those Drakes. > > > > > >73, > > > > > >Evan, K9SQG > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >-------------- next part -------------- > >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > >URL: < > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20100728/26588969/attachment-0001.html > > > > > >------------------------------ > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Drakelist mailing list > >[email protected] > >http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > > > > >End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 25, Issue 33 > >***************************************** > > > _______________________________________________ > Drakelist mailing list > [email protected] > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist >
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