Just for everyone's info I just got done conversing with Tom at Hayseed about 
kits and shipping charges.  If you order multiple kits the PayPal system will 
include S/H for EACH kit but as Tom pointed out there is a maximum 
shipping/handling charge of $10; until he can fix the web site system his 
temporary fix is to credit back the difference above $10 to the customer.

All this talk earlier about recapping got me to thinking about winter projects 
so I'm getting Tom's 2-B, 2-C, R-4C and T-4XC kits to add to the project queue 
for colder days.

BTW, Tom has been off the list for a while but intends to return soon.

Dino KL0S

On 17Sep2010, at 2:49 PM, [email protected] wrote:

> Joe,
>  
>     You can buy complete re-capping kits for the R-4A (both 13 and 11-tube 
> versions) from Hayseed Hamfest at the following link:
>  
> http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/
>  
>     I just re-capped one of each type using the Hayseed Hamfest kits and they 
> work great!  Garey is correct, the can cap supplied in the kit for either 
> version is the same, i.e., three (3) 100 uf sections and one (1) 22 uf 
> section.  On some R-4A 13-tube jobs the 22 uf section isn't used, but on 
> others it is and the extra 22 uf electrolytic in the kit isn't needed.  
> You'll have to look carefully at how yours is configured and proceed from 
> there, possibly even tracing the circuit to make sure you know which 
> electrolytics are used and where.  If you have the *ORIGINAL* manual for your 
> radio the schematic is probably correct, but if you have a copy of the manual 
> there's a better than even chance that what the schematic shows is not 
> exactly how the radio is configured.
>  
>     The only real difficulty with installing the kit is unsoldering and 
> removing the old can.  Since one of the soldered ground lugs is practically 
> underneath the little transformer you'll have to unbolt the transformer and 
> move it aside.  One of the screws for the transformer is underneath the PTO 
> assembly but you should be able to see it and get the screw head rotated so 
> that you can stick a small screwdriver blade into the slot to hold it while 
> you back off the nut holding the transformer, and later tighten the nut when 
> you reinstall the transformer.
>  
>     Then all you need is a big soldering iron or gun and some braid (they 
> supply some with the re-cap kit) or a good solder-sucker.  I used a Weller 
> 200/260 gun and it did OK.
>  
> 73/arf,
>  
> Paul, K4MSG
>    
>  
> In a message dated 9/17/2010 12:46:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> [email protected] writes:
> Joe -
> 
> Well, the first question is, where do you come up with five caps?   The 
> original R-4A is a three section, 100/100/100 @ 200 VDC.  Another 
> section, 20 @ 200 was added 'officially' in the second version, at s/n 
> 3040.  But both three and four sections caps have been found 'in the 
> wild' in the early version one units.
> 
> Tom at www.hayseedhamfest.com has replacements in stock generally that 
> drop right in.  I think he supplies four section caps for all versions.
> 
> Adding caps under the chassis works too, just be sure to disconnect the 
> can cap terminals completely.  It can be a little crowded.
> 
> Ultimately, it's your radio and your decision!  :-)
> 
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
> 
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
> TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> <www.k4oah.com>
> 
> 
> Joe Loverti wrote:
> > Hi guys,
> > I'm working on a early serial number (2213) 13-tube R4A receiver. I'd 
> > like to restuff the electrolytic can with new capacitors. It looks 
> > like a very tight fit using (4) 100 x 250V and (1) 20 x 250V new caps 
> > (total of 5 capacitors) in that old can. How do you feel about 
> > mounting new caps in underneath the chassis instead of restuffing? 
> > Does that pretty much ruin the historic value of a radio? Of course, 
> > I'd leave the old can in place for looks.
> > Thanks for you opinions in advance.
> > Joe
> > WW8X
> >    
> 
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