> * I rather not try to desolder the thing.  Can I slap a new fuse on top
with
> conducting glue/paste?

You definitely wouldn't want to do that although you could.  5 Amps through
a narrow paste junction like that isn't recommended.  It's ok to use
that stuff to repair automobile defroster lines because you're trying to
generate
heat anyway.  Also, using the paste on very low power  'signal' lines
you can get away with providing it doesn't attenuate the signals to the
point
where it's unusable.  However, to bridge a main power gap like that would
generate an unacceptable amount of heat.

>or should I solder the new fuse atop the old fuse?

This is more desireable, but best to completely remove the bad fuse.  Use a
fine
tip iron around 12-15 Watts max.

> * Where can get a replacement fuse?  Digi-key?  Is there any specific
thing
> used to describe this type of fuse?

Yes - Cooper Bussman SMD-Tron will fit the bill.

> * What would cause a fuse to blow like this?

Something is definitely not right in the I/O module - battery path.  I
definitely would start
looking there.  You mentioned you only measured 8v from the battery.  Not
good.  There
are 3 'cell pairs' internally in the battery pack.  Each pair is rated at
4.2 volts fully charged.
Li-ion batteries MAY NOT respond to any kind of charge once the cell pair
dips below 3v.
Now here are a few scenarios.  All cell pairs are assumed balanced,
therefore, each cell
pair now only has a 2.67v charge on it  OR one cell pair is dead and the
remaining cell
pairs are 4.0v a piece OR, the battery protection circuit internally to the
pack has shut
down a cell pair.  At any rate, it may take a little bit of doing to
rejuvinate your battery pack
if at all possible.

> *Alternatively, who can do this repair work, and roughly how much it would
> cost?  ><100$?
>

DT&T - $150.00 board swap.


Jack B.





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