At 10:24 PM 8/26/04, Brian Mury wrote:
Tom Hammond wrote:
> It's also great for tinning toroidal inductor leads... a nice side benefit.
Hi Tom, care to describe how you use it in that fashion? I found
stripping and tinning the toroid leads to be the only part of building
my K2 that I didn't enjoy (I used the solder blob method). I've got the
KSSB and KPA100 sitting here waiting to be built, and I'm tempted by the
sale on the Hakko 808 - help me justify it! :-)
Why certainly. It's disgustingly easy...
I don't recall who first posted it here (maybe Don Brown), but here goes:
1) Wind the toroidal inductor and space the turns out
as required. Cut the leads to about 3/4" long (max.).
2) Take each of the toroidal inductor leads and bend
them STRAIGHT OUT from the body of the core.. like
wings. This will allow you to tin the lead almost
right up to the body of the core, which ensures that
when you install the inductor, you don't pull any
of the enameled lead down into the plated-thru hole,
possibly creating a poorly soldered connection.
3) With the Hakko 808 desoldering tool hot and ready to
play, melt some solder into the nozzle and then slowly
(1-2 seconds) insert the inductor lead all the way up
to the turns on the inductor.
In about 1-2 seconds (max.) the enamel will begin to
bubble up and smoke.
4) HOLD the trigger (sucking the solder out of the nozzle)
and slowly remove the inductor lead. This should leave
you with a perfectly tinned inductor lead.
If there's any burnt enamel remaining on the wire, and this is NOT unusual,
it can usually be broken off the wire with a thumbnail as the wire is
pulled between the thumb and forefinger.
When the leads are again folded back against the body of the core, the
tinned portion of each wire should extend to (or just slightly past) the
outer edge of the core itself.
Like said, nuthin' to it! IF you have a Hakko 808.... <G>
73,
Tom N0SS
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