Also - I have been having trouble getting 10 Watts on 10 meters so I asked Gary 
about it (he's the Elecraft repair guru).  He said the same thing about 
interleaving T4 but he also said to make sure T2 is wound correctly, and while 
I was at it to check T1.  When I popped the lid, I wasn't at all impressed with 
my rendidtion of T2, so I e-mailed the "Toroid Guy" and he was kind enough to 
send me T1, T2 and T4.  

So once I get them in I'll let you know the results...For me T2 was very tuff 
to wind and then mount (and upon further inspection, it looks it!)

Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103 

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron D'Eau Claire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, September 27, 2004 12:00 pm
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Binocular Core

> The recommendation is to "interleave" the two windings instead of 
> simplywrapping the white windings on top of the greens windings. 
> That should
> improve the coupling slightly. Wind it so the green wire runs over 
> and under
> the white wire. 
> 
> The K2 should make the full 10 watts on all bands as long as you 
> wind it per
> the instructions, but some K2's just barely make the 10 watts on 
> 10 meters
> and the Elecraft builders are famous for tweaking and prodding for 
> an extra
> few milliwatts! It's sort of part of the genetic makeup of a habitual
> builder/tinkerer <G>.
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> In final stages of K2 build (winding last toroids).  I remember a 
> commentpassing through the reflector a week or two ago about 
> winding the binocular
> core differently than outlined in the manual.  Before I get to it, 
> thoughtI'd ask if this was something I should do?  Maybe the 
> comment wasn't about a
> K2.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> Auburn CA CM98
> 
> 
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