I'd like to add an addendum to my earlier post on this subject: I happened to talk with Eric today and he said they don't really recommend "interleaving" the wires on the binocular core although it doesn't seem to hurt and may help.
I was just upgrading an older K2 for a buddy and noticed that it only produced about 7 watts on 10 meters. I pulled T2 and rewound it with the red winding spaced out over 85% or so of the core and the green secondary spaced out over almost all of the red winding (the green wire wraps between adjacent red turns for as long as it goes - it's a smaller winding than the red wire one), then carefully dressed the leads so the green turns didn't get jumbled up in a bunch and the core was about 2mm off of the board. That produced the full 10 watts on 10 meters and up to 15 watts on some of the lower bands. Neatness counts! It's easy to make the green windings jumble up on that coil if you pull on the leads when soldering them. Besides, it should be spaced slightly off of the board. I put a little piece of scrap plastic as a spacer under the coil until it was soldered, then slid the spacer out. Gary at Elecraft has an excellent photo of a properly-wound T2 on the Elecraft web pages. Look under Builder's Resources/Troubleshooting Tips - the second from the bottom of the list I believe. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [email protected] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
