Hi Bill....

Quite a while back you sent me this request (I didn't forget).  I'm done with 
the schematic of the T1 remote tuning interface that I hope to find time to 
build.  If you are still interested, I can shoot you over a copy of it.  The 
Tiny CAD program I use to draw schematics only allows me to export them in .emf 
format, but using Windows Viewer (double click on the .emf file) will allow it 
to be viewed and printed.

Anyhow, I was going to use the T1 to tune a 88' dipole fed with twin lead to be 
used as a multi-band antenna, but upon further research on this antenna I don't 
think the T1 has enough to be able to tune it.  I am still going to build the 
interface because sooner or later I will probably be moving into a restricted 
area and need to use some sort of stealthy antenna.

73's
de George
WD0AKZ



  George, 

  I would be most interested in what you come up with?  IF you have the time 
  please keep me informed. 

  Bill 
  K9YEQ 

  -----Original Message----- 
  From: [hidden email] 
  [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of GeorgeP1111 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:25 AM 
  To: [hidden email] 
  Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply 


  I am in the process of slowly reconfiguring my station for the inevitable 
  future move to a condo or antenna restricted area where I will have to play 
  the "Stealth" antenna game.  My station comprises of a Yaesu FT-817ND, W1 
  PWR/SWR Indicator, 3ft diameter remotely tuned home built 20m-10m Magnetic 
  Loop antenna, and a 80/40 meter Trapped Dipole using the T1 Tuner for fine 
  tuning.  I figure I can always wrap plastic flowers around the Mag Loop and 
  pass it off as a Christmas Wreath, but I will still want some sort of 
  outdoor wire using the T1 tuner for the lower bands. 

  I want to use the T1 at the antenna end vs the radio end as I am now.  I 
  know that the T1 has the ability to be remotely tuned via the port on the 
  side, but I want to kick it up a notch.  I'm running DC up the coax to 
  control the capacitor motor in my Mag Loop using the standard 
  inductor/capacitor configuration, and I want to follow the same plan for the 
  T1.  The idea is to use a push button to supply the 9v (I'll probably use a 
  higher voltage and reduce it at the tuner to compensate for line loss) via 
  the coax to the T1 (vs using the internal battery) and a LM556 Dual Timer at 
  the T1.  Key Up, Push and hold the button, the T1 turns on and boots up and 
  at the same time the LM556 starts timing.  After a preset amount of time (1 
  second?) the LM556 would pull the Tune line low via a Optical Isolator for 
  say 1 second starting the Tune function.  Watch the SWR on the FT-817 or the 
  W1 and when it stabilizes low, release the button and unkey. 

  Granted, I could leave the internal battery installed and just use the 9v to 
  pull the Optical Isolator low but by adding the LM556 I can eliminate the 
  battery as well. 

  I know the power via coax will work, and the LM556 (or even a PIC) will 
  work, so I guess I'm asking if there is a problem with turning On/Off the 
  power to the T1 and is 1 second enough time to stabilize prior to initiating 
  Tune? 

  tnx 

  de George 
  WD0AKZ 
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