Hi George

I've been running my T1 remote out under my 88ft dipole which is just short
of 50ft in the air at the midpoint. The ends are a bit higher. The T1 is
down at the ground under a plastic container and connected to the windowline
via a Elecraft 1:1 balun. I remote control it via the circuit on my website
www.jtmiller.com . I find it gets a 1:1 match on 80-6 meters. It is
connected to my K3 about 60ft away via RG213.

Obviously the pattern is a bit of a daisy above 20M and is mostly a cloud
warmer at 80M and below. But that's just what this length dipole does
independent of match.

I've lately been using the windowline as a vertical with the 88ft as a
capacity hat on 80-160 and found it works quite well. The T1 is very happy
matching that on 80M and gets to about 2:1 on 160. I use my K3 internal
tuner to remove the remaining mismatch on 160 to ensure proper power meter
readings. The loss due to this level of SWR on 160 with RG213 is
meaningless.

When used in this vertical configuration the two ends of the windowline are
tied together to one terminal of the tuner and the other side connects to 8
60ft buried radials.

73

Jim ab3cv

On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 10:33 AM, GeorgeP1111 <pasek...@umn.edu> wrote:

> Hi Bill....
>
> Quite a while back you sent me this request (I didn't forget).  I'm done
> with the schematic of the T1 remote tuning interface that I hope to find
> time to build.  If you are still interested, I can shoot you over a copy of
> it.  The Tiny CAD program I use to draw schematics only allows me to export
> them in .emf format, but using Windows Viewer (double click on the .emf
> file) will allow it to be viewed and printed.
>
> Anyhow, I was going to use the T1 to tune a 88' dipole fed with twin lead
> to be used as a multi-band antenna, but upon further research on this
> antenna I don't think the T1 has enough to be able to tune it.  I am still
> going to build the interface because sooner or later I will probably be
> moving into a restricted area and need to use some sort of stealthy antenna.
>
> 73's
> de George
> WD0AKZ
>
>
>
>  George,
>
>  I would be most interested in what you come up with?  IF you have the time
>  please keep me informed.
>
>  Bill
>  K9YEQ
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: [hidden email]
>  [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of GeorgeP1111
>  Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 11:25 AM
>  To: [hidden email]
>  Subject: [Elecraft] T1 Remote Tuning and Power Supply
>
>
>  I am in the process of slowly reconfiguring my station for the inevitable
>  future move to a condo or antenna restricted area where I will have to
> play
>  the "Stealth" antenna game.  My station comprises of a Yaesu FT-817ND, W1
>  PWR/SWR Indicator, 3ft diameter remotely tuned home built 20m-10m Magnetic
>  Loop antenna, and a 80/40 meter Trapped Dipole using the T1 Tuner for fine
>  tuning.  I figure I can always wrap plastic flowers around the Mag Loop
> and
>  pass it off as a Christmas Wreath, but I will still want some sort of
>  outdoor wire using the T1 tuner for the lower bands.
>
>  I want to use the T1 at the antenna end vs the radio end as I am now.  I
>  know that the T1 has the ability to be remotely tuned via the port on the
>  side, but I want to kick it up a notch.  I'm running DC up the coax to
>  control the capacitor motor in my Mag Loop using the standard
>  inductor/capacitor configuration, and I want to follow the same plan for
> the
>  T1.  The idea is to use a push button to supply the 9v (I'll probably use
> a
>  higher voltage and reduce it at the tuner to compensate for line loss) via
>  the coax to the T1 (vs using the internal battery) and a LM556 Dual Timer
> at
>  the T1.  Key Up, Push and hold the button, the T1 turns on and boots up
> and
>  at the same time the LM556 starts timing.  After a preset amount of time
> (1
>  second?) the LM556 would pull the Tune line low via a Optical Isolator for
>  say 1 second starting the Tune function.  Watch the SWR on the FT-817 or
> the
>  W1 and when it stabilizes low, release the button and unkey.
>
>  Granted, I could leave the internal battery installed and just use the 9v
> to
>  pull the Optical Isolator low but by adding the LM556 I can eliminate the
>  battery as well.
>
>  I know the power via coax will work, and the LM556 (or even a PIC) will
>  work, so I guess I'm asking if there is a problem with turning On/Off the
>  power to the T1 and is 1 second enough time to stabilize prior to
> initiating
>  Tune?
>
>  tnx
>
>  de George
>  WD0AKZ
>  --
>  View this message in context:
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