Hi Don Thank you for your reply which was easy to follow. I should explain that the rig has worked fine on SSB up to now using a Yaesu microphone supplied by the K2 builder. On opening I found that my K2 does have the KDSP2 option so I had to remove it too. I then found that the previous owner of the K2 had installed a small extra circuit board on the back of the microphone socket ( to "improve the audio with the yaesu mic"). He suggested that removing this & reconfiguring the jumpers as per the K2 manual would sort it out. So, I removed the connections of the small board, & using the instructions, reconfigured all the jumpers for the Heil ProSet & installed the 5.6K resistor across pins 1 and 6. I then re-fitted the boards and reset SSBA = 1, SSBC =2, POWER = 5 watts & tested the rig with both PTT & VOX. I found:- Receiving, everything working OK with either the LS or the ProSet headphones CW everything working OK PTT switch appears to work OK, VOX apparently not working & got no audio output from the microphone with either VOX or the PTT. I.e. there was no movement of the K2's power display.
Having re-checked the wiring on the mic. socket & the 5.6k resistor, I suspect the Heil condenser mic is not working - how can I check it or are there other things I should look at? 73 Ray G3XLG -----Original Message----- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: 04 November 2011 20:09 To: Ray Spreadbury Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Set up of Heil ProSet K2 Headset assembly Ray, Locating those screws is actually easy. Look down between the Front Panel and Control Board and you will see two hex standoffs about 3 cm down and about 4 cm from each side panel. The screws thread into those standoffs. The one on the right is easiest - just remove the screw. On the left, if you do not have the KDSP2 of KAF2 installed, it is equally easy. When the KDSP2 is installed, you first have to pull off the top DSPx module (pull it toward the rear to remove and stow it on an anti-static material) - then remove the screw from the center of the KDSP2 board and pull that board to the rear. After that, remove the hex standoff that the KDSP2 board was secured to. With the KAF2, the procedure is similar to the KDSP2, but there is no top board to remove first. Having done whatever of that is required, you can then remove the front panel board by pulling it straight to the front. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/4/2011 3:42 PM, Ray Spreadbury wrote: > Hi Guys > > > > I did not assemble my K2 (no 4099) which I bought second-hand and I now wish > to use a ProSet K2/K3 I have bought from Elecraft. > > > > According to the instructions which came with the ProSet , (Step 1) I have > removed the 4 exterior screws securing the K2 front panel to the front of > the K2 case. They also say "remove the two interior screws holding the > control board to the front panel board". > > > > Where exactly are these 2 screws, and what else do I have to remove to get > at them please? So far I have removed the top, bottom& right side of the > chassis, located the Control Board& the front panel board but I'm not sure > what I need to do next.. > > > > Any help appreciated > > > > 73 > > > > Ray, G3XLG > > > > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[email protected] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
