There are two additional complications to removing the right side panel. 1) The top rear screw that secures the panel goes into a 2D fastener, just like the other corner screws, but it's an extra long screw that goes all the way through the 2D fastener and into a threaded standoff that is used to secure the KAT3 or KANT3 board. To replace it correctly so the standoff is tight against the 2D fastener, you need to:
--Remove the mounting screw and lock washer holding the KAT3 or KANT3 board. --Replace the side panel and tighten the long screw in the 2D fastener. --Tighten the standoff against the 2D fastener. --Replace the KAT3 or KANT3 board mounting screw and lock washer. 2) The second issue is that there are two screws and nuts mounting two voltage regulators, U12 and U14 on the side panel for heat sinking. They must be removed *before* trying to remove the side panel. That's not too hard if there is no KRX3 sub receiver installed (be aware there are lock washers and nuts on those screws that must be removed and replaced). If the sub-receiver is installed you must pull the sub-receiver module out of the K3 to get to them. That's why I suggested going in through the rear. 73, Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- I just swapped the sub rx from one K3 to another. With the right side panel removed, the aux BNC is right there and you can use a small 7/16 open-end wrench to tighten the nut. Cheers and 73, Fred Cady "The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration and Operation" www.ke7x.com fcady at ieee dot org ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[email protected] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
