Of course, Ron is correct, those crimp pins can be removed from the 
housing, but I have seen many that had the crimp pins mangled so neither 
the crimp pins nor the housing were able to be salvaged.

As far as removing the back without popping the connector, yes, it can 
be done, but the connector is so easy to put back on, and it takes a lot 
of care to keep it connected, I just "simplify" and remove the connector 
when the back is removed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 6:53 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Matt, if you look at the connector, you'll see that there is a little
> locking tab on the side of the connector opposite the "ears". If you press
> down on the tab so it no longer hits the connector housing, then push back,
> you should be able to remove the old female connectors easily. I've done
> that and, with careful soldering, salvaged the existing connectors to attach
> to new wires.
>
> When you reinsert the connectors in the housing, be sure those springy
> locking tabs pop up to positively lock each connector in the housing. If
> they won't insert far enough, it's certain you have too much solder on the
> connection.
>
> My KX1 has the "stock" battery wire length and I have plenty of room to open
> the back and lay it end-to-end next to the front panel to change batteries
> without even disconnecting the battery cable, although unplugging it and
> replacing it is no problem at all.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>

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