Good advice!  (And a new question)

I haven't followed this too closely until I saw Don mention blade-type 
automotive fuses. (Not to be confused with the heavier blade-type fuses.)

We use a blade-type automotive fuse at our repeater site.  I found the fuse 
holder melted one day.  The fuse blade had slipped to one side of the internal 
terminal in the molded fuse holder.  This caused a resistance connection. It is 
nearly impossible to tell when the fuse blades are properly inserted into the 
two terminals.

As the current increased across the resistance the voltage drop increased.  The 
Voltage times the current, produced enough wattage to melt the fuse holder, 
nearly creating a fire.  Thankfully, it burned open.

For Ian's benefit, I made some observations of my K3 for comparison, using my 
homebrew power distribution lash-up, and the wire used.  (Emphasis on the 
latter)  My Astron 35M is a bit light on voltage.  Two DVMs show 13.66, and 
13.72 Volts at the power supply.  The K3 shows 13.6 V at the radio during key 
up.  With key down, the K3 shows 11.9 V, and  15.4+ Amps.  The Astron ammeter 
indicates at least 14 Amps.  (I don't see the volt meter vary on the Astron) 

***Considering that I have a P3 attached,  Does that amperage track with other 
users?***

(Using simple math, the K3 seems to be very efficient on CW.)

So, in summary, with my PS voltage and wiring lash-up, I am losing 1.7 Volts on 
key down. It indicates a full 100 Watts at the K3, at my in-line power meter to 
the dummy load, and also into a service monitor.  All tests were done on 75 
meters.

Rich, n0ce

P.S.  Don mentioned low voltage, high current applications.  Accidents can also 
weld firmly together in those situations. Planning good fuse placement is 
important.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Don Wilhelm 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 6:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue


  Despite the potential for voltage drop, I would not forget the fuse at 
  the power supply end of the wire unless you are certain the power source 
  has adequate overcurrent protection built in.  The blade type fuses with 
  tight fitting sockets will cause very little voltage drop.  If the 
  connection is not in the milliohm range, connection tightness is to blame.

  That fuse is not intended to protect the equipment connected, but is 
  instead to protect the wire from a short circuit.
  Many power supplies do have adequate overcurrent protection - however ---

  I hear of instances where this was not in place when the power source is 
  a battery.  In the event of a short at the end of the power cable (or 
  internal to the cable), a LOT of energy can be available which will have 
  current sufficient to melt copper conductors of any size and spew molten 
  metal all over the place - a personnel and a fire hazard.

  Low voltage high current power sources can be just as maiming as high 
  voltage supplies.  Please be safe!

  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.  Keep all hams healthy and free of 
  injury in the coming New Year.

  73,
  Don W3FPR

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