Tyler,
Those are relatively low cost parts, so order them. It may be possible
to salvage those headers, but why take a chance that could damage the RF
board (think of the RF board value compared to the cost of replacement
headers). Don;t be penny wise and pound foolish, there is too much at
stake.
If your solder sucker is not successful in removing the old connectors,
grab one of the pins with pliers and pull while heating the solder
connection for that pin - the pin will pull out in due time. Do the
same with the 2nd pin and clean up the solder with solder wick. If
solder remains in the hole, heat the solder pad and run either a
toothpick or a stainless steel needle into the hole to remove the solder.
Once the solder is clear, the new connector should be easy to install.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/29/2013 11:39 PM, Tyler Barnett wrote:
The previous owner of my K2 who built it, put the main-board P3 and P6
connectors in backwards.
That is, the index tab is facing the rear of the K2, rather than the front.
Reason this came up: I was finishing up the internal KAT2 tuner, and realized
through an ohmmeter check the connector was likely backwards.
A check of the K2 board layout in the manual confirmed both WERE backward.
I don't know if I'll ever put the internal battery into the K2, but I'm
thinking of pulling it along with P6.
The KAT2 kit supplied a P6 for this purpose, but that leaves me short the P3
connector.
I'm concerned that despite my best removal efforts, that I'll ruin both getting
them out.
Yes, I have a new solder-sucker, and an Aoyue desoldering station, but I don't
know how hardy this connector is.
Should I order P3 now from Elecraft, or see how it goes?
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