[I modified the subject slightly adding "K2"]
Personally, I would put a small tag inside to remind me that they're backwards, and leave it be. You can always get a new P3 from Elecraft Parts.
Related subject: If you have the KAT2, it **is** possible to plug the KAT2 RF input cable into the 12V connector. This will ground the 12V supply, and if you're foolishly using a non current-limited supply as I was [unfused LiFePO4 pack, good for about 40-50 amps into a short], the primary 12V trace will simulate a fuse in about 2ms. My battery is now fused at about 125% of the K2's maximum load, and I painted the RF plug and socket body black.
73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013 - www.cqp.org On 4/29/2013 8:39 PM, Tyler Barnett wrote:
The previous owner of my K2 who built it, put the main-board P3 and P6 connectors in backwards. That is, the index tab is facing the rear of the K2, rather than the front. Reason this came up: I was finishing up the internal KAT2 tuner, and realized through an ohmmeter check the connector was likely backwards. A check of the K2 board layout in the manual confirmed both WERE backward. I don't know if I'll ever put the internal battery into the K2, but I'm thinking of pulling it along with P6. The KAT2 kit supplied a P6 for this purpose, but that leaves me short the P3 connector. I'm concerned that despite my best removal efforts, that I'll ruin both getting them out. Yes, I have a new solder-sucker, and an Aoyue desoldering station, but I don't know how hardy this connector is. Should I order P3 now from Elecraft, or see how it goes?
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