Tom, If you can obtain the leaded solder, you will find it easier to work with than the lead free stuff. 63/37 alloy is preferred, but 60/40 is good too. The melting temperature of the leaded solders is lower and the 63/37 mix has no paste stage - it goes directly from liquid to solid with no pasty stage between, so no cold solder joints resulting from movement while cooling.
I have repaired/upgraded a couple K2 kits soldered with the lead free stuff and found it was difficult to impossible the remove components even with my Hakko desoldering gun. The lead free solder requires a higher temperature and seems to not conduct heat through itself and flow readily - the result is that only some of the solder is sucked out but then the component must be removed by other means and the holes cleared with a stainless steel needle. All in all, the lead free solder works, but I don't like to work with it, so I have stocked up on the leaded variety. Environmentalists should not worry because I have yet to commit any of my soldered projects to the landfill and likely never will!!! 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > I am about to start building and Elecraft kit and note that lead > free solder is NOT recommended. > In the UK it is virtually all lead free, does anyone have any > experience of using it? > > 73's Tom - G4IDL > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [email protected] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
