In my case I did find water in the sections of LDF5-50 that were
unprotected but with an ohm meter and a hacksaw was able to remove the
affected portions resulting in a >10M ohm reading after removing just a
couple of feet. The nature of the foam inside LDF5-50 doesn't permit water
to travel quickly very far.

I'm successfully running my KPA500 on all bands.

No idea about carbon tracking.

YMMV

jim ab3cv


On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 3:11 AM, Dr. William J. Schmidt, II <
b...@wjschmidt.com> wrote:

> I have a different opinion on buying used heliax.  Unless you scan it (TDR
> minimum) you will never know if what you are purchasing is a piece of good
> used heliax... or something hit by lightning now has carbon track shorts
> and/or dielectric that is saturated with water.  While some lucky people
> have purchased used heliax with success, I would use the same common sense
> as when purchasing any used coax.
>
>
> Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ
>
> Owner - Operator
> Big Signal Ranch
> Staunton, Illinois
>
> email:  b...@wjschmidt.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Miller
> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 7:51 PM
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; John Fritze
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 and 30' Flag Pole Antenna Users?
>
> John
>
> When working through your setup consider getting some 7/8" hardline to use
> as feed which depending on your run length to the antenna may allow you to
> keep the KAT500 in the shack with acceptable loss. You'll still need some
> coax jumpers to get from the hardline to the rig inside the house so you'll
> need to calculate and add that loss along with the little bit at the
> antenna.
>
> Any of the online loss calculators will give you the answers. Use 10:1 as
> the max SWR estimate at the antenna to calculate the feedline loss since
> the KAT500 can't tune more than that anyway.
>
> Here's some examples: @10:1, LDF5-50, 3.5Mhz, 100ft yields a total loss of
> 0.32db. Same for 28Mhz yields 0.86db.
>
> http://www.arrg.us/pages/Loss-Calc.htm
>
> Such hardline is readily available at much less than new prices if you buy
> used. I paid a bit over $1/ft for mine if you're luck you might even find
> it free. Connectors are pricey but since you only need two, no big deal.
>
> The tradeoff is having the tuner in the shack where is it visible and
> usable without concerns for weather vs temperature and humidity issues
> outside.
>
> 73
>
> jim ab3cv
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 28, 2013 at 8:24 PM, Javier Campos
> <nm6e_...@sbcglobal.net>wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all for the replies. Excellent points and real life experiences
> > have provided some valuable insight.
> >
> > The antenna should be her in about a week or so.
> >
> > I will use my MFJ antenna analyzer (I hope it still works) after I get it
> > standing up and eventually (need to let the "look" set in of just the
> > aluminum) for the neighbors before I attach the UNUN and the radials.
> >
> > After all, it's a "Flag Pole" to my HOA so I just need to let it sit
> there
> > and let the novelty wear off before I attach UNUN, lay the radials and
> dig
> >  the trench for the coax.
> >
> > It will also give me time to freshen on on plotting the R+jx on the smith
> > charts, again after 24+ years from doing in it in college.
> >
> > Thanks again and you will all here from me once this is all installed and
> > put together and on the air.
> >
> > Javier NM6E/5
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> >  From: John Fritze <fritzej...@gmail.com>
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 2:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 and 30' Flag Pole Antenna Users?
> >
> >
> > Javier,
> >
> > Here's some additional info for you to my first post.
> >
> > A lot of great info can be found here regarding the antenna design you
> are
> > considering:
> >
> > http://www.sgcworld.com/technicalInfoPage.html
> >
> > If the tuner is at the radio and the output from the tuner is coax (such
> as
> > a built in tuner in the K3) the tuner is tuning the coax and not the
> > antenna.  It will make the rig happy and isn't that what we mostly are
> > looking for anyway?  But the main problem is how do we get the most
> > transfer of power between the coax and the antenna?
> >
> > A schematic circuit of any antenna is a resister, inductor and capacitor
> in
> > series.  By adjusting the capacitance or the inductance we can try to
> > arrive at 50 Ohms to match to coax.  That's what a remote tuner is trying
> > to do by adding capacitors and coils into the circuit.  Once the match is
> > found, then the rig output, coax, and antenna are all 50 ohms giving us
> the
> > maximum transfer of power so it is not burnt up as heat in the coax.
> >
> > A remote tuner tunes the antenna and the coax is effectively flat SWR
> from
> > the rig to the tuner.  One problem I have found is that coax should NEVER
> > be used at the output of a remote tuner (BUT we all do it don't we, even
> I
> > do on occasion)!   From the remote tuner to the antenna it is all antenna
> > and it is all radiating.  West Marine sells a product called high voltage
> > wire, it is 10 or 12 gauge, stranded and tinned, covered with a white
> PVC.
> > It is not cheap but it is a really good product.  Sometimes a remote
> tuner
> > will tune with a short coax at the output, but it won't be happy and you
> > will find that the tuner will hunt for a solution.
> >
> > One other issue folks sometimes have is trying to tune the vertical when
> it
> > is too short for the tuner.  Ideally you need to be 42-43 feet to work
> > 80-10 meters.  If you want to sometimes get on 160, then you need to be
> > closer to 55 feet at a minimum, but then you are compromised at 10-6
> > meters.  Not because the antenna won't tune the longer vertical but
> because
> > angle of take off is too high. If you try to tune an antenna which is too
> > short, the voltages at the relays can be very high, causing arching and
> > burning of relay contacts.  One way around this is to tune at a very low
> > output, then raise power once the relays have set where they need to be.
> > Be careful to not vary too far in frequency however!  Another solution is
> > to add in inductance by jumpering in a coil when you want to work the
> lower
> > bands.  There are numerous articles in QST about getting a 42 foot
> vertical
> > onto 160 meters.
> >
> > Remember: a properly grounded vertical antenna is only about 25-30 ohms.
> > So right off the bat you have a 2:1 mismatch. I also do not use an UNUN
> or
> > balun of any type and have not had any issues.  Again, you need a VERY
> GOOD
> > GROUND.
> >
> > I know for the real antenna gurus out there everything I have stated is
> > kind of simplistic and there are tons of variables and best solutions per
> > application.  I am just giving you 30 years of real world experience.
> >
> >
> > --
> > John Fritze Jr
> > K2QY
> > AARA president 2013
> > ACACES secretary 2013
> > Albany County RACES Radio Officer
> > ARES ENY DEC Northern District
> > Hudson Div. Asst. Director
> > Twitter: @k2qy
> > ______________________________________________________________
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