Hi Harlan,
Maybe if you could test and report on a few of the crimpers
sold in the ham market that would be informative. Especially on coax crimpers.
The good crimper frames show up on EBay for $75 to $100. New the dies are over
$100 per coax type. I like Kings.
Possibily an article for one of the Ham magazines.
But even with the good commercial crimpers I'm firmly in the
anti PowerPole camp.
73,
Bob
K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR
On 12/11/2013 8:20 PM, Harlan wrote:
I run a calibration lab. We use go-no go gauges to test crimpers. The allowed
tolerance for the gauges are three-ten thousands of an inch... yes good
crimpers are an accurate instrument... and they should only be used with
lugs/wire sizes specified for them
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Walter Underwood <[email protected]> wrote:
I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on the joint
to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting something springy in
there, like insulation, is asking for trouble.
wunder
K6WRU
On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling <[email protected]> wrote:
Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me.
I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the PP
Plastic.
...bill nr4c
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
EricJ <[email protected]> wrote:
I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still
just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It
gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief
to be secure in the long run.
What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back
over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel
with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp
normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of
the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief.
I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a
dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them
has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any
connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC
connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically
than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for
house wiring.
Eric
KE6US
On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
A little off topic:
I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for
crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end of
the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to squeeze
using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside
the crimp connector. The crimps hold the undersized wire very well
with this procedure.
BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire. Bend the
conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold.
I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors. My problem
was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which
inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for
the wire size selected.
73, Ed - KL7UW
---------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500
From: Don Wilhelm <[email protected]>
To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" <[email protected]>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Charlie,
The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with
wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if
the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the
barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra
security.
73,
Don W3FPR
73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
[email protected]
"Kits made by KL7UW"
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--
Walter Underwood
[email protected]
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