I run a calibration lab. We use go-no go gauges to test crimpers. The allowed 
tolerance for the gauges are three-ten thousands of an inch... yes good 
crimpers are an accurate instrument... and they should only be used with 
lugs/wire sizes specified for them

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Walter Underwood <wun...@wunderwood.org> wrote:

>I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on the joint 
>to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting something springy in 
>there, like insulation, is asking for trouble.
>
>wunder
>K6WRU
>
>On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling <n...@widomaker.com> wrote:
>
>> Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me.
>> 
>> I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the 
>> PP Plastic.
>> 
>> ...bill nr4c
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>> 
>> EricJ <eric_c...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still 
>>> just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It 
>>> gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief 
>>> to be secure in the long run.
>>> 
>>> What I do is strip the wire the same length as normal, then fold it back 
>>> over the insulation. I insert the wire and insulation into the barrel 
>>> with the wire down (away from the split in the barrel), then crimp 
>>> normally. This makes a solid electrical connection with the stiffness of 
>>> the wire insulation which also provides more than adequate strain relief.
>>> 
>>> I've mentioned it here before and some are aghast, but I have maybe a 
>>> dozen connections like that currently in my shack and not one of them 
>>> has ever failed in the 10 years I've been doing it with APPs. But any 
>>> connection where this is necessary is a low voltage, low current DC 
>>> connection so what's it going to hurt? It isn't any worse electrically 
>>> than using a small wire nut which is considered safe enough even for 
>>> house wiring.
>>> 
>>> Eric
>>> KE6US
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 12/11/2013 9:41 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
>>>> A little off topic:
>>>> 
>>>> I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small for 
>>>> crimp connectors?  I strip twice as much insulation from the end of 
>>>> the wire and then fold the bare wire over double.  May have to squeeze 
>>>> using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit inside 
>>>> the crimp connector.  The crimps hold the undersized wire very well 
>>>> with this procedure.
>>>> 
>>>> BTW this works for solid conductor wire, like hookup wire.  Bend the 
>>>> conductor double and there is something for the crimp to hold.
>>>> 
>>>> I do not know if this will work with powerpole connectors.  My problem 
>>>> was having too large diameter wire for the powerpole connectors which 
>>>> inhibited proper crimping; solution chose proper size connector for 
>>>> the wire size selected.
>>>> 
>>>> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>>>> 
>>>> ---------------------
>>>> Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:11 -0500
>>>> From: Don Wilhelm <w3...@embarqmail.com>
>>>> To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" <pin...@erols.com>, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
>>>> Message-ID: <52a86feb.2070...@embarqmail.com>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>>> 
>>>> Charlie,
>>>> 
>>>> The PowerWerx crimper is good.  Just be certain to fill the cavity with
>>>> wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if
>>>> the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the
>>>> barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra
>>>> security.
>>>> 
>>>> 73,
>>>> Don W3FPR
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>>>> http://www.kl7uw.com
>>>> dubus...@gmail.com
>>>> "Kits made by KL7UW"
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>>>> 
>>> 
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>> ______________________________________________________________
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>
>--
>Walter Underwood
>wun...@wunderwood.org
>
>
>
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