Hi Folks,

 

This may not be a very high tech solution, but it got me out of a perceived
pickle.  I had stripped one of the screws securing the final transistors to
the heat sink in one of my K2/100s.  I was thinking "how the heck am I going
to remove a stripped screw in such a tight space?".  A friend had suggested
super gluing a Phillips screwdriver into the stripped screw.  I tried it and
the super glue didn't hold.  Then I thought I could drill and tap the screw
out, but I couldn't find a tap that was small enough.  What finally worked
was simply to drill into the center of the screw until the screw head
detached from the screw shaft.  It took a 5/64" bit.  I had loosened all the
other screws on the board and the board simply lifted away from the heat
sink when the screw head separated from the shaft.  With the board removed,
the screw shaft could easily be unscrewed from the heat sink and replaced
with a new screw.  By the way, I turned the KPA100 board screw-head-down
when I drilled so there wouldn't be much of a chance for metal splinters
getting into the board.  It worked!

 

I have always used a high quality #1 screwdriver when I tightened these
screws, but it stripped out anyway.  I use my K2/100s exclusively for
contesting and have been finding I need to re-tighten those screws after
20-30 hours of full bore operating (100 watts, lots of CQs).  Maybe a
Lock-tight type product is needed to keep the screws from backing out after
thermal cycling, but some of you may have some advice whether this should be
done or not.  Anyway, in case you find your final's screw stripped, this
method worked for me.

 

P.S.  I played around in ARRL SS SSB this past weekend.  The K2 is a GREAT
side band radio too!  I know, I know.I can get ejected from this reflector
for such heresy.  ;-)

 

73,

Bob K5WA

K2s #4687 and #5119 in SO2R configuration 

 

 

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