I am aware of the "rubber band trick", but I find no difficulty at all
in plugging the KAT1 even with loose standoffs.
First place the standoffs so they are close to the holes in the board.
Next (and most important) put the long screws through the KAT1 board -
hold them down with your fingers or thumbs.
Now eyeball the top of the standoffs with the end of the screws and
insert the screws a bit into the standoffs.
Since the screws contact the standoffs before the connector pins come
close to their mates, you can now align the connectors and push them home.
Wiggle the screws a little bit to get them to drop into the holes on the
KFL1 board and tighten them - job done.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/23/2014 1:12 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:
Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the onboard tuner (which is
rarely used) into my K//1/
The band module resides under the ATU board making
such changes something not done without some
strong motive.
Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
makes a filter board change when the KAT1 is installed
much easier. He cut two segments from a thin rubber band
and placed them inside the spacers that separate the KAT1
and KFL1. He threaded the screw coming out below the KAT1
PCB into each spacer with rubber strip in it. That keeps
the otherwise loose spacers in place on the screw threads
as the screws are turned during KAT1 removal/replacement
for subsequent KFL1 swaps.
The K1 MCU remembers the frequency display calibration for
each band that was set by OFS, using a new KFL1 requires only
loosening the two KAT1 PCB screws, removing the KAT1 (the
KAT1-KFL1 spacers will now remain on the screw threads as the
KAT1 is pulled off), swapping the KFL1, replacing the KAT1,
installing the K1 top cover, and assigning b1 and b2 to the
new bands.
OK...so it's *still* a bit of a pain. But not having to mess
with those two PCB spacers below the KAT1 is *major* improvement!
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