John,
The normal mounting for the KPA100 is in the same place as the top cover
for the QRP K2. That means the KAT2, KBT2 and KIO2 will be removed.
Optional mounting is to install the KPA100 (usually with the KAT100-2)
in a separate EC2 enclosure. That latter configuration leaves the K2/10
with its options intact.
When the KPA100 is installed (even with the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure)
the KAT2 is not active. With the external KPA100, the KAT2 is bypassed
and forced to the ANT1 output.
For the battery question, I would recommend connecting the battery
terminals directly to either a Smartcharger, or to a 13.8 volt float
charge. Either can be left connected continuously. Fuse the positive
lead for safety - if the direct battery connection develops a fault a
LOT of current can flow and may result in molten metal flying about and
create a fire hazard.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/8/2014 2:01 PM, John Fritze wrote:
One of our K2s needs to be converted to a K2/100. Looking over the
instructions I do not see where this is terribly difficult, but I do have a
couple of questions:
Both K2s are totally maxed out with all the options so there is no reason
to use one over the other. If I add the KPA100 kit, will the 20 watt tuner
still be inside or does that need to be removed? Will it still be
available to use if running less than 20 watts?
When I remove the battery, anyone have any idea how often I should put it
on the charger to maintain the pack? Should the pack be unplugged for
storage?
This is a SOTA rig for my XYL and I think she will have an easier time with
100 watts and a Buddipole LIPO pack. She is having a difficult time making
contacts QRP.
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