On 9/8/2014 11:01 AM, John Fritze wrote:

Both K2s are totally maxed out with all the options so there is no reason
to use one over the other.  If I add the KPA100 kit, will the 20 watt tuner
still be inside

No, it's attached to the top of the K2.

Will it still be available to use if running less than 20 watts?

QRP to QRO and back is a "Top Swap." Took me about 5 min until I sold the KPA100 and KAT100. Remove case screws, lift top, disconnect cables, set aside. Fetch other top, connect cables, reinstall top.

Note: The two small coax cables with the 2-pin Molex connectors [Aux RF and 12 VDC] *CAN* be cross connected. This is unwise, it will short the 12 VDC. I recommend you paint the connectors and the mates on the RF board different colors.

When I remove the battery, anyone have any idea how often I should put it
on the charger to maintain the pack?  Should the pack be unplugged for
storage?

I never had the battery pack.  What kind of batteries are they?


This is a SOTA rig for my XYL and I think she will have an easier time with
100 watts and a Buddipole LIPO pack.  She is having a difficult time making
contacts QRP.


If the battery is an A123 LiFePO4 or LiPoly, be sure to fuse the 12 VDC leads [see above warning re cross connection]. I've found that automobile spade fuses seem to have very low contact resistance. At 100W, you're going to draw somewhere in the general vicinity of 14-17 A. LiFePO4's [and LiPoly] batteries are small and light but they have a minuscule internal resistance and will deliver a huge slug of current into a short, you need to be careful.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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