Thanks Mike and Paul!

I was looking at the photo on the Elecraft website and saw there where still
provision for four 3D screws to hold the cover on and imagined a smaller
cover directly over the batteries that had two knurled screws holding it in
place.

The verbal description of the two knobs at the back and the top slid under
the lip of the front panel is exactly what I was looking for.

>From what I've seen on the web the poor KBT-1 is the least popular Elecraft
accessory you can own.

But, like the AGC mod,  I need to see for myself.   So it will go into my
K1...but for how long? 8-)

Tom K2TA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Morrow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Tom Althoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with internal battery


> Tom asked:
>
> > Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1
> > internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?
> >
> > I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like
> > to access the battery compartment.
>
> The "knobs" you speak of are just replacements for the two small screws
that hold the K1 top cover on at the rear.  The KBT1 screws have a larger
knurled head that allows them to be loosened or tightened using only finger
force.  The replacement top cover that comes with the KBT1 is held in place
in the front by a lip, so only the two screws at the rear are required.
>
> I removed my KBT1 after having it in place for about 18 months.   I didn't
like the looks of the KBT1 top cover and the sound of the micro speaker
attached to it, compared to the original cover and speaker.  More
importantly, I don't like a source of potential chemical leakage from
batteries inside the K1's case.  There is no physical barrier around the
KBT1 AA-cell pack that will retain leakage from a cell.  I much prefer to
use a small external 10-AA cell pack rather than the 8-AA cell pack of the
KBT1.
>
> The KBT1 should have been made easily removable so that the compromises
associated with having it installed need only be suffered when absolutely
needed.  The KBT1 *should* attach via a cable with a polarized two-pin
female connector to a male connector *anchored* on the RF board.  This would
allow easy removal at any time.  The current design has the connections made
by soldered connections, and even if you jury-rig in a connector in the
power leads, one side of the connector will then be floating around creating
potential shorts when the KBT1 is removed.
>
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F

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