Fred is right about the 450-ohm stuff getting funky in wet weather. Cause my 
tuners to do the clicky-click dance whenever it rains here, although we've been 
pretty dry the past few years. Because of this, I plan on replacing my 450-ohm 
line with 600-ohm ladder line in a couple weeks.  I had the 600-ohm stuff on 
that doublet initially but a change in roofing materials made me change. Long 
story.  Anyway, as you probably know, antennas work much better when built or 
adjusted when the weather is horrible!!!

Jim / W6JHB


> On Oct 17, 2014, at 4:57 PM, Fred Jensen <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Don pretty much described my low band antenna.  Full Disclosure: I live on 5 
> acres and have a 70' tower.  That said, it is a Sloping V [I'd call it an 
> inverted V except is isn't resonant on any band], about 210' on a side from 
> the top of the tower.  450 ohm window line to the bottom of the tower, DXE 
> 4:1 balun, and coax into the house.  I have chokes on the coax at the balun 
> and at the weatherhead entrance, but I've never had any problems with RFITS 
> [RF In The Shack] with or without the chokes.
> 
> It works well on 80-40-30, requires a tuner of course [KAT500].  Works on 160 
> but warms the clouds and worms, I use an Inv-L for top band.  It also works 
> on all the bands up from 30 but the pattern gets fairly complex and squirts 
> my RF in a lot of non-productive directions because it's so big.
> 
> My experience is that an 88 ft doublet, center-fed, works really well on 40 
> and up in frequency, often used by those activating summits in Summits On The 
> Air.  Shorter doublets are also effective, and not being resonant doesn't 
> really matter [in some cases, it helps].  Neither does what you do with the 
> ends.  Most of the radiation comes from the center, high current sections.
> 
> 450 ohm window line is sensitive to moisture ... if you set up your tuner for 
> dry conditions and it's now raining, things will need retuning.
> 
> Keep in mind the wisdom of Tom, N6BT, "Anything conductive will radiate if 
> you get power into it."
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 2015 Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
> - www.cqp.org
> 
>> On 10/17/2014 3:54 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> 
>> Make it a balanced dipole antenna (equal lengths on either side of the
>> feedpoint) for best efforts in keeping RF off the feedline.  The actual
>> length does not matter a lot, but it should be greater than 80% of the
>> half wavelength for the lowest band of interest.
>> 
>> Use open wire line or 450 ohm ladder line to feed it down to the point
>> where it enters the shack - hopefully you can run the feedline
>> perpendicular from the radiator for at least 1/4 wavelength on the
>> lowest frequency of interest for lowest radiator to feedline pickup. Put
>> a good 1:1 current mod choke at that point.  See page 29 of K9YC's RFI
>> tutorial http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
>> for instructions on how to construct a very effective current mode choke
>> - note: a good balun *is* a current mode choke, but many fail to perform
>> as well as the ones tested by K9YC.
>> 
>> You will need a tuner, and any Elecraft tuner should do the job nicely.
>> If it does not, then you may have to make some adjustments in the length
>> of the parallel feedline to see if you can achieve success on all bands
>> of interest.
>> 
>> You may want to take a look at the Antenna and Transmission Line article
>> on my website www.w3fpr.com for a bit on non-math theory on antennas.
> 
> 
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