Jerry,

I had this exact problem on 40m with a 42" Samsung LCD tv. I finally got
it working, but here's what I tried that ultimately proved useless:
-- Added a counterpoise on the floor of the shack for 40m
-- Added ferrite cores on all cables connected to the tv; power cord HDMI;
audio line out
-- I even opened up the tv housing and placed cores over interconnections
between boards.

Ultimately, I finally figured out that rf was getting into the
touch-sensitive switch matrix on the tv at the lower right corner. So, I
found cardboard box with dimensions such that  if it sat on the table top
along with the tv with the opening facing upward, the top edge of the box
completely covered the switch matrix up to the point where the bezel met
the tv screen. Then I made a simple Faraday shield with some aluminum foil
completely coating the inside of the box, and then another sheet of
aluminum foil covering the outside of the box, but the two foil shields
did not connect together electrically. Then I ran a wire from only the
outside shield, to the underside of a screw head of one of the screws that
holds on the back cover of the tv. Then I measured where the infrared LED
sensor for the remote was located with respect the to edge of the tv
bezel, and punched a hole through the box such that with the box in
position to completely cover the area of the keypad, the remote would
still operate the tv. I also made sure that punching the hole did not
connect the two layers together.

Yes, it's really ugly and strange looking, but my wife can watch tv now
when I'm on 40m, and I don't have to keep resetting the settings on the tv
that got clobbered every time I operated.

Prior to 'The Box', as little as 20 watts would make the tv do all kinds
of interesting things. With the shield in place, I can run full power from
the KPA500 and it doesn't bother the tv in the least. This is with all of
the ferrite cores that I had previously installed, removed.

This may or may not be the source of the problem with your tv, but it's a
very easy thing to try as a first check.

Good luck with resolving your TVI issue.

73,

Dale, WA8SRA




> On 40m my TV turns off and on by itself when I transmit. I'm thinking that
> it's related to grounding because I've not figured that out yet. I have a
> roof mounted mast that holds my dipole. The coax comes down through the
> roof, routes through the attic down inside the wall to the station. I've
> been told I need to ground the feedline BEFORE it enters the house but I'm
> not sure how to get a ground correctly up to the roof. No matter how I run
> the ground a lightning strike would likely ignite my house inside the
> attic
> if I run it inside the house. I have a low pass filter installed just
> before/after the Rig.
>
>
>
> The plan I'm thinking of so far.
>
> 1.   Run an 8 gauge dedicated power feeder from my main panel (on the
> opposite side of the house) to the shack with a 20A breaker. The 8Ga is to
> lower ground losses.
>
> 2.   Install a ground rod outside my shack and run a heavy gauge to the
> shack to bond with the dedicated power line ground.
>
> 3.   Ground all gear in the shack to the dedicated power ground.
>
> 4.   ?? maybe do a run of 14-2 romex with all three leads bonded together
> up
> to the mast, install a mast antenna switch and ground it with the 14-2.
>
> Thoughts /comments?
>
>
>
> Running only 100w into a Buckmaster 7 Band OCF dipole at 35' per the
> instructions. The dipole is broadside to 45 degrees for EU coverage.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance. I've read A LOT on grounding but haven't seen this
> scenario covered.
>
>
>
>
>
> On another note I appear to have an allergy to my key. I just can't bring
> myself to get on the air with it. I need the practice to get my speed.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jerry Moore
>
> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
>
> An Amatuer is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
> Patriotic.


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