Ted:
You might look into building the K2/100 in the 'Twins' configuration.  To 
switch from 100 watts to qrp just requires disconnection the power amp box.  
This configuration allows the KAT2 to be used along with the high power tuner.  
I built mine that way and it works very well.

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 15, 2016, at 10:56 PM, Dauer, Edward <eda...@law.du.edu> wrote:
> 
> A question for those who have the K2/100 ---
> 
> I finished building and am now becoming familiar with operating the K2/100 
> and the KAT100-1.  It’s a great combination; but for portable work it’s heavy 
> and there are two boxes.  At the time I bought it I did not purchase the KAT2 
> – the internal low power tuner.  My questions have to do with having both the 
> KAT2 and the 100W amp. Installed at the same time.  I tried investigating 
> this in the manuals but for some reason the link to the online KAT2 manual 
> isn’t working tonight.
> 
> Two questions.  First, is there a physical space problem if a K2 has the 100W 
> option, and the KNB2, and the APF/Clock option ,and the KAT2, or can the KAT2 
> stay on board even when the 100W amp is in place?  Second, does the system 
> switch automatically from the KAT2 to the outboard KAT100-1 when the amp is 
> in (or when the power exceeds the KAT2’s limit?)  What I mean to be asking is 
> whether having the KAT2 inside will complicate the process of removing the 
> amp to go “barefoot” with the base K2.  As it stands now it’s six screws 
> twice, five plugs, and no configuration changes.  Does having a KAT2 on board 
> add anything to that?
> 
> Thanks in advance . . .
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
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