Oversight on my part, Robert. I've had KX-Line on the brain all year because of 
the KX2 release.

In fact, Field Day is why Elecraft exists, and the K2 was the rig Eric and I 
dreamed up to improve our FD experience. We're still tweaking things nearly 20 
years later :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jun 24, 2016, at 6:57 PM, Robert G Strickland <[email protected]> wrote:

> Alas, no mention of the K2, my FD go to radio. This is understandable, and no 
> criticism is meant. The K2 is yesterday's radio, while the KX2/3 are for 
> today and tomorrow. That said, it's fun to run up a lot of CW q's on the 
> "old" K2 while other operators in the group are using up-to-date Japanese 
> radios and struggling with SSB.
> 
> ...robert
> 
> On 06/25/2016 00:16, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> Here are my annual tips for getting the most out of your rig at Field Day. 
>> (Some are Elecraft-specific--thanks for the bandwidth!)
>> 
>> 1. BATTERY LIFE: To conserve battery life, use hunt-and-pounce rather than 
>> calling CQ, and use lower power output when possible. This is especially 
>> practical on a very quiet band, such as on 15 or 10 meters in the afternoon 
>> and early evening. You'll be amazed at how many stations you can work with 
>> one watt when these higher bands are open.
>> 
>> - Lower power can also keep the rig cooler. (As will operating in the shade! 
>> At least keep the heat sink in the shade, if you can. On the KX3, the heat 
>> sink occupies the back edge and bottom of the enclosure. On the KX2, it's 
>> the right side panel.)
>> 
>> - To reduce supply current in receive mode, use headphones rather than the 
>> internal speaker, and if lighting conditions permit, turn off the LCD 
>> backlight (MENU:BKLIGHT).
>> 
>> - The KX2 has an amp-hour monitoring feature. Tap DISP and rotate VFO B to 
>> obtain this reading. To clear the AH value to zero, go into the AMP HRS menu 
>> entry and hold CLR.
>> 
>> - The KX3 automatically switches the power amplifier to a more efficient 
>> setting based on the mode, supply voltage, and power setting. You can tell 
>> that power-saving mode is in effect by a decimal point after the 'W' in the 
>> power value (e.g., "5.0 W."). In SSB and audio data modes, the applicable 
>> level is 3.0 watts.
>> 
>> 
>> 2. QRP HUNT-AND-POUNCE TIP: This type of operation can be greatly enhanced 
>> by using dual watch (KX2/KX3) or a sub receiver (K3/K3S). It allows you to 
>> keep one VFO on a station you're waiting to call, while tuning the other VFO 
>> to look for the next station to call. (If you beat my own 1B-Battery score 
>> because of this tip...guess I asked for it :)
>> 
>> 
>> 3. ANTENNA SELECTION: The general rule is, "the longer and higher, the 
>> better," suggesting wire-in-a-tree antennas. (If you're lucky enough to have 
>> a portable yagi, that's even better.)
>> 
>> - When winding antenna wire for storage, wind it in a figure-8 pattern. When 
>> you release the bundle later, it will spring out easily without kinks or 
>> tangles.
>> 
>> - An electrically short whip will work in a pinch, but you'll typically 
>> realize a 5 to 15 dB improvement on both RX and TX with an an-hoc wire 
>> antenna.
>> 
>> - Most Elecraft rigs have an optional internal, wide-range ATU that can tune 
>> random wire antennas on all or some bands. Once the antenna is set up, go 
>> into the ATU menu entry on each band of interest and hold CLR to clear out 
>> all L-network memories. You may then only have to do ATU TUNE once or twice 
>> per band. Data for your home antennas may be stored for up to 32 smaller 
>> segments on each band.
>> 
>> - When connecting a wire directly to an ATU, avoid wire lengths that are 
>> multiples of a half-wave on any target band (unless you're using a half-wave 
>> antenna with a matching transformer at the rig). 26' and 52' (approximately) 
>> work well for 40-6 meters in most cases, and 52' will usually allow matching 
>> on 80 m as well.
>> 
>> - You can use these same lengths for counterpoise wires, which are essential 
>> for low loss on transmit. Without at least one counterpoise wire, your 
>> transmitted signal will be an additional 10-20 dB lower, even if the ATU can 
>> match the antenna.
>> 
>> 
>> 4. ANTENNA SPACING: If you're using more than one transmitter, try to keep 
>> the antennas as far apart as possible and perpendicular to each other. This 
>> is a good practice with all FD stations, because it can prevent receiver 
>> de-sensing and intermodulation distortion. If two stations unavoidably have 
>> their antennas in each other's near fields, you can dig into a pretty deep 
>> bag of tricks, including reducing preamp gain or turning on the attenuator. 
>> These settings are per-band on all Elecraft rigs.
>> 
>> - KX3: Try setting MENU:RX SHFT to 8.0 rather than NOR. (The KX2 always uses 
>> 8 kHz shift.)
>> 
>> 
>> 5. OSCILLATOR ISOLATION: The KX2 and KX3, like other radios with a 
>> quadrature direct-conversion architecture, use a VFO (local oscillator) 
>> running at or very close to the operating frequency. If you have another 
>> radio on the same band as the KX2 or KX3, and the antennas are close 
>> together, the other radio may be able to hear the rig's oscillator when 
>> they're both tuned close to the same frequency.
>> 
>> To prevent this entirely, the KX3 includes an isolation amplifier that keeps 
>> the oscillator from radiating back through the mixer. Normally this 
>> amplifier is turned off to save about 15 mA of receive-mode current drain. 
>> To turn on the isolation amp, set MENU:RX ISO to ON. This has no effect on 
>> performance.
>> 
>> The KX2 doesn't have an isolation amp, but isolation is very good when the 
>> preamp is on.
>> 
>> Have fun!
>> 
>> 73,
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> [email protected]
> Syracuse, New York, USA
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