Steve,
That 33 foot wire may be what is giving you problems. It is a half wave
on 20 meter and present an impedance greater than the T1 can tune.
I quote from the T1 manual:
"Avoid lengths close to a multiple of 1/2-wavelength on any band you plan to
use. If you use an end-fed wire with no feedline and/or a poor ground,
you may need to reduce power to avoid RFI problems with the transceiver,
tuner, nearby computers, portable phones, etc."
I suggest you try a different length, or at least add a short
counterpoise wire. If you are using it on 40 meters, you definitely
need a counterpoise wire of about 33 feet.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/8/2016 2:56 PM, Steve-KI4EZL wrote:
Thanks Don.
In the video I posted on youtube, the blinking yellow is actually the self test
sending code for each value.
The green light was blinking when in first step of tune mode, then touch paddle
to start 2nd step of tune mode. Normally it moves around trying different
tunings and latches on to the best one. Now, it just has steady tone, steady
green light, flickering yellow a tiny bit, but does not try different tunings
and does not latch, and does not finish the tuning, like it use to. I ran the
self test and the blinking yellow light showed the following results.
S=1R0, SWR
V=8R9, BATTERY VOLTAGE
L=0, INDUCTANCE
C=0, CAPACITANCE
N=t, NETWORK CONFIG
B=0, BAND ID
F=1R07 FIRMWARE REVISION
Tested following with neg dmm lead on neg bat tab. No battery in device
tested. Red DMM lead on parts ends, one at a time:
D1: 122/0
D2: 122/0
R3: 120 / 117
R4: 120 / 117
R5: 118 / 0
R6: 118 / 0
Then, testing with both pos & neg DMM lead tips on each end of parts, then swapping
neg for pos & vice versa,
D1: 122 / 79
D2: 122 / 79
On Aug 8, 2016, at 1:43 PM, Don Wilhelm
S=1R0, V=8R9, L=0, C=0, N=t, B=0, F=1R07
--
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