This is why I run 10 watts mobile with the KX2 or KX3 :) Last time I tried 
this, using 10 W into a Hustler 40-m whip, I worked JA1NUT on CW and had no 
trouble checking into a statewide net on SSB. Also had quite a few SSB QSOs on 
17 m. 

So if you find all this excellent information about mobile/QRO overwhelming, 
try mobile/QRP. 

Wayne
N6KR

----
http://www.elecraft.com

> On Apr 15, 2017, at 8:55 AM, Colin Brench via Elecraft 
> <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> 
> Greetings to all,
> I thought I would start a separate thread to expand this topic is a slightly 
> different direction as this topic touches on a number of areas.
> The exposure discussion is very valid especially in today's vehicles that 
> often contain composites rather than metal panels, but I will leave this to 
> others.  My expertise is in EMI control and so I can provide some background 
> to how unexpected things happen.
> The DC issues are clear - you need to provide enough power cleanly to an 
> inverter.  Well over 100 Amps peak with acceptable drop.  This is all very 
> low resistance but not necessarily low impedance at the high frequencies 
> being used.  So some serious EMI filtering may be needed to keep things 
> stable.  
> RF fields around the antenna will be high and most mobile antennas have a low 
> input impedance.  To fully understand EMI risk you need to understand where 
> the RF current will go, and simply put you need to consider the antenna as 
> every conductor in the vicinity of the actual radiator. The one rule of 
> antennas is that current goes to zero/reflect back from an end.  This is how 
> NEC works - it solves for the current distribution over the entire structure 
> be it a dipole or frigate, these currents are then used to calculate the 
> antenna effect.  Now for a vehicle the antenna and car body are the most 
> obvious conductors to consider and may be OK for the antenna analysis.  
> However, considering all conductors is essential for EMI analysis, so add in 
> all the cables, door slots (well insulated breaks in the 'Faraday cage'), all 
> other antennas, engine and mounts ground straps etc.  Picking which can be 
> ignored in a given situation requires serious expertise.
> For QRO operation these directly induced currents are very critical.  
> Unwanted high current on any electronically controlled function can have 
> unexpected and potentially unpleasant results. The addition of the ham 
> antenna, DC wiring, other control wires combined with the possible positions 
> for each part of the system may drastically change the results of the system 
> analysis performed by the vehicle designers.  So caution is certainly called 
> for.
> EMI testing has a number of aspects, using a radiated field of 200V/m is one 
> typical test for remote EMI risks.  Direct current injection is used to 
> simulate near effects such as cells phones of an on-board transceiver of 
> 'moderate' power.  If you can find out how the vehicle you have was tested, 
> then it is possible to get an idea of how much risk there might be (using NEC 
> to guesstimate the induced currents on each band).  this is not easy,,,,
> Today's vehicles have so many safety critical electronic circuits that 
> manufacturers do go to extremes to keep everything bullet proof, but 1kW to a 
> (by necessity poor) antenna is most likely outside their considerations.  EMI 
> issues won't show all the time, as effects can interact, there is a stream of 
> data being passed at all times and upsetting some data patterns can be easier 
> than others.  Because of this testing takes a long time to get a high 
> confidence that vehicle performance is reliable or at least will fail to a 
> safe mode
> OK. all said what is practical here?  First I would consider how much power I 
> really want to use as the problems grow rapidly with higher power.  Seek the 
> advice of someone familiar with both QRO operation and your specific vehicle 
> if possible (as was done on this list).  Be cautious and aware of the vehicle 
> behavior until you are sure all is well.  I would happily run a 1kW in my 
> 1969 vehicle, but would be extremely cautious abut that in my 2015 minivan!  
> Though ensuring good general RF design consideration I would not worry about 
> 100W in the minivan, maybe 200W, after that I would be in caution zone.
> A call to the vehicle manufacturer might shed light on what they consider 
> reasonable or possible (though they might just say don't do that :-/  )
>   Very 73,
>       Colin..     WDJR
> 
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