Well ... yes, best to fuse the + conductor. However, be aware that
inline fuse holders [and their fuses] are not zero ohm superconducting
devices. The best ones seem to be the automotive blade-type [Rig
Runners use them] with a wide contact surface and wiping action on
insertion and removal. K<mumbles> [actually, most radios] do not like
low supply voltages, it increases the IMD among other things. So after
installing the fuse, you should adjust your power supply voltage to make
sure it's not sagging under load from the additional resistance.
In the case of a mobile installation, you should fuse BOTH conductors.
Should the connection from the battery to vehicle frame become
disconnected or high resistance, starting current return will be through
your radio equipment's chassis and return conductor. I've never heard
of this actually happening but then there's a reason aircraft connectors
are made so things can't be cross connected.
I witnessed a real event where cross connection happened, however with
apologies to Pierre Fermat, the story is too long to fit in this email.
73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County
On 10/15/2019 2:19 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Terry,
The KX3 has internal protection, but a fused power lead (only
necessary in the positive lead) provides additional protection. That
is important IMHO when powered by an external battery - there is a lot
of energy in a battery, and if the wire is pinched and shorts, it will
spew molten metal.
Fuse close to the power source, NOT the radio end of the power cable.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/15/2019 12:54 PM, Terry Basom wrote:
I was looking at my power leads and realaized I had no fuses in the
lines.
The factory power lead as well had no fuses. I'm about to change that
with
inline fuses.
I would appreciate any comments..
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