Dave and all,
I have not used the Pace desoldering tool, but I have plenty of
experience with the Hakko 808.
The vacuum pump needs to be disassembled and cleaned of solder flux
occasionally and once that is done, it has plenty of suction. That
means the holes and plastic "flappers" in the pump need to be cleaned -
I used alcohol successfully. Pay attention (or take photos) when
disassembling and it will go back together just fine.
Between the pump cleaning, it is necessary to clean out the nozzle after
a dozen or so solder connections - use the tool that matches the nozzle
diameter. The larger "collector tube" that catches the solder needs to
be cleaned as well. You need to change the filters often - if you are
using it a lot, keep a goodly supply of those ceramic filters on hand -
they are not cheap, but become ineffective when they fill up with flux
and solder bits (reduced vacuum).
I used it for over 10 years while repairing the Elecraft legacy products.
In fact I had 2 of them so I did not have to change from a small slender
tip to a larger tip. If you are using one constantly, having 2 is a big
help, but that is not for everyone. For similar reasons, when I was
doing professional woodworking, I had 5 routers, 2 were dedicated to
their attachments, but the other 3 were available to mount a variety of
bits for the project being worked on. A hobbyist can get along with
one, but a professional wants dedicated tools - time is money.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/14/2022 6:24 PM, Dave Fugleberg wrote:
Back when I was a bench tech doing component level repair, I used a vacuum
desoldering station from Pace (I forget the model). That thing worked
great- I pulled hundreds (maybe thousands) of through-hole parts from
boards with it.
They were (and are) expensive, but so are time and PC boards, so my
employer equipped every bench with one. It had a glass tube in the handset
that collected the solder. As long as you cleaned it regularly, it worked.
I recently looked at some used ones but still couldn’t justify the price
for my hobby needs, so I continue to use a variety of means to remove
solder. None are as good as the Pace. I’ve been tempted to buy a Hakko or
one of its knock offs, but reviews generally say they don’t have enough
suction. I’d love to hear an honest comparison between the Pace and the
Hakko from someone who has used both.
73 de W0ZF
On Mon, Mar 14, 2022 at 9:26 AM jerry <je...@tr2.com> wrote:
It's hard to beat a good old big blue Soldapullt.
To remove the offending part with minimal damage to its surroundings,
it's generally
wise to chop the part off its leads first. Then if you have access to
both sides of the
board, you can heat each land with a soldering iron and pull the lead
out with a pair
of tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Then suck the land clean with the
soldapullt.
Alternatively, you can clean it with solder wick, and poke the hole
through with a
toothpick.
I haven't had much luck with desoldering irons. I did buy a
desoldering station.
It has a vacuum pump in the base unit, and a separate iron in a stand,
with a vacuum
chamber and filter. The pump starts when you pull the trigger on the
iron. It's a
Chinese copy of a Hakko. First of all, the pump is not very strong.
Not that much airflow
or suction. Much less than a Soldapullt. Second, it takes it a LONG
time to warm up,
I guess because the desoldering head has high mass.
- Jerry KF6VB
On 2022-03-13 22:06, Tony wrote:
All:
Can anyone recommend a budget de-soldering iron that can be used in
tight places? I need to remove a small component that has a few
surface mount devices close by so the iron would need to have a small
tip.
Also need advice on the best soldering iron to use for this type of
work as well as the best low-temp Rosin core solder to use.
Thanks,
Tony -K2MO
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