Pretty harsh, Wilson ... and also pretty much wrong. I use a KAT2 with
my K2, and KAT3 with my K3, and used the KXAT1 with my KX1 before I sold
it, and they all work just fine ... all bands. Currently, the only
manual tuner I own is a homebrew Z-match W8FGU made for me. I use it
with a QRPp Rockmite.
My end fed antennas usually have a counterpoise [not a "ground'] but the
one at home uses the outer surface of the coax shield from the
transformer on the fence into the house as a counterpoise. No earth
electrode. No RF burns. Internet modem and router are not confused,
neither is the phone system.
If you're having problems, email me. Contrary to Wilson's lecture, you
don't need to be an EE or PhD to be a successful amateur.
73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County
k6dg...@gmail.com
Wilson Lamb via Elecraft wrote on 7/1/2022 11:03 AM:
This is so far off the wall it can't be answered...there is no answer.
Please read my rant on Ham Qualifications.
Then ask yourself why the tuner might have a two wire output connection.
Then read about what impedance is.
Then read about what the impedance at the end of your wire might be.
The answer is that it can be too high for your tuner or too low and anywhere in
between.
Then read about matching networks and what they do.
Then read about how the end fed wire needs to be used with a ground of some
kind.
You'll soon see, if you do the above, that what you propose is a recipe for
getting an RF burn, confusing your internet modem and phone system, or even
damaging your radio or tuner.
The real best answer is to get a manual tuner, connect the antenna AND A GROUND (rod) and learn to use it.
Yes, the auto tuner "can" work, given a ground, but it pretty surely won't work
on all bands.
The end of the antenna and the tuner "should" be well up above your radio, like
at the top of a window, and connected back to your station with coax.
Someone here may have time to explain all of the above to you, but it's a tall order.
WL
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