Brian,
Then there must be a difference between original manufacture and repair
for those connections. The prior information I have from NASA and for
avionics applications is that crimping is the preferred method of
fastening. The only reason I can think of to vary from that in the
field is that the proper tools may not be universally available.
As has been pointed out, a proper crimped connection requires the proper
tool and connectors designed to be used with those tools. Vary either
piece of the equation and you end up with an unreliable connection. You
can take some shortcuts with soldering, but if you crimp, make certain
all the elements are correct.
For instance, I do not crimp my Anderson PowerPole connections - because
I do not have the correct tool - I have tried the low-priced model, and
I have experienced several connector failures and have gone back to
soldering them.
73,
Don W3FPR
Brian wrote:
Hello all,
Just my 2 cents. I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do
work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used.
Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything.
73
Brian
N1WNC
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM
To: Larry Phipps
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.
I have seen what seems to be the same tool at about half the price
searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it
is exactly the same. RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an
interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I
can't be sure it's the same.
It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in
your hands. And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it
breaks or does not do the job right.
I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size
cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I
don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as
LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic
crimper.
I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do.
Jack
Larry Phipps wrote:
Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which
supplier is cheapest?
73,
Larry N8LP
Jack Smith wrote:
I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as
well.
I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them
superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are
double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and
others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield.
It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the
coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some
crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a
non-removable die.
If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least
a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be
the same tool.
Jack K8ZOA
Don Wilhelm wrote:
John,
I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N
connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types.
But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to
the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to
be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use".
Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N
connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the
opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector
improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly
assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the
past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered
that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not
pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions.
I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use
crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH
easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful
about cutting the coax correctly.
73,
Don W3FPR
John GM4SLV wrote:
<hobby horse>
But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly
these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF
connector over a "UHF" one any day.
Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat"
ferrule for
under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small
sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a
couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with
soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a
decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on
pressure
and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the
shell of the plug).
I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with
"UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me...
I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only
having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use
BNCs
on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate
for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with
working with BNCs already....
</hobby horse>
Cheers,
John GM4SLV
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