ok, thanks for that, the latest RS stuff says:
Crystal 400 60/40 Tin/Lead EN29453, S-Sn60Pb40E
the Elecraft HAGC mod instructions for SMD say
63/37 or 60/40 Sn/Pb-content rosin-core solder, 0.015" to 0.025"
diameter
so my S-Sn60Pb40E looks like thats the same alloy, not sure what the
'E' means.
it's 0.7mm, which is 0.027559055" (ok, conversion widget!)
so although thats a little over (by 0.002!) that would look to be ok.
I failed to mention that I have done a fair amount of soldering in my
time (taught as an electronics apprentice and worked in defense
electronics for 8 years), so don't have a problem with soldering.
I just didn't know about the make up of the solder - but of course
'clicked' after your post.
Thank you Gary
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Those who walk bravely through life, unafraid of loss or failure,
find that they very rarely lose or fail.
On 2 Apr 2008, at 11:27, Gary Hvizdak wrote:
At 0315 EST on Wednesday April 2nd 2008 David Ferrington (M0XDF)
wrote ...
... I KNOW some of you know a lot about solder. ...
--
Hi Dave,
Your 60/40 solder could possibly result in what are referred to as
"cold" or "disturbed" solder joints. If I were you I'd only use
that stuff
for non-electrical hobby projects such as leaded glass, and jewelry.
For best results I would suggest eutectic solder which is an alloy
composed of 63% tin and 37% lead. In addition to it's having a lower
melting point, it also transitions pretty much instantly from a
liquid to a
solid, without any intervening "plastic" state.
In addition your .048" solder is much to thick for SMD work. I
suggest
something in the neighborhood of 0.020", plus or minus 0.005". (You
need to
match your solder size to your task, being careful that the solder
isn't too
fine as this could result the flux burning off before it does its
job, which
is to clean the surfaces to be soldered of any oxidation.)
Regarding the flux, your best bet is a mildly activated rosin
core flux.
FYI, here mildly activated is a reference to the temperature at
which the
rosin melts (so that it can do it's job).
DO NOT USE WATER SOLUBLE FLUX AS YOU WILL VOID THE WARRANTY OF
WHATEVER
IT TOUCHES! WATER SOLUBLE FLUX IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE AND
HYDROSCOPIC. NEVER
EVER USE IT WITH INSULATED WIRE (ESPECIALLY STRANDED) AS IT WILL
WICK UP
UNDER THE INSULATION WHERE IT CAN'T BE COMPLETELY REMOVED. OVER
TIME IT
WILL EAT RIGHT THROUGH THE WIRE!
SIMILARLY DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER!
No-clean fluxes are okay, but they have a higher activation
temperature
and you should have some experience with them before using them on
something
as expensive as the K3. The advantage of no clean fluxes is that
they only
leave about 3% of the residue left by a traditional rosin flux.
BTW, I won't even go into the subject of whether or not to remove
the
flux and how to go about doing that. If you are interested you can
see my
previous post on this subject in the archives here ...
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2005-November/049886.html
73,
Gary KI4GGX
P.S. I don't know a lot about solder, but I work with someone who
does!
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