Hi All,
It has been a long time since I built my K2 (#72). But it still is working
like a champ! I started pondering the idea of having a 2nd K2 to leave at
our summer location so I wouldn't have to haul an extra radio back and
forth. Building another one could have been fun, but a friend of mine
decided to part with his relatively new K2 in order to step up to a K3.
Since he is an excellent builder, and the price was right, I took it off his
hands. This K2 is relatively spartan, but it did have the SSB module and
the 160 meter option. He had the ATU kit still in the package, so I bought
that too. Adding DSP was very tempting, but I'm so impressed with the
Datong filters (actually an analog filter, but it works bettter than just
about any DSP outboard unit I've ever tried) I decided to just use one that
I have.
As I expected, the K2 works flawlessly, and probably better than my original
unit, although I haven't put them side by side yet. I plan to do that
though. That could be interesting, and also could determine which one stays
home!
I had forgotten how involved building the ATU module was. It's not that it
is all that difficult, but there is a lot to the process. It took me a lot
longer than the bag of parts suggests! But it all went together smoothly,
and now it is installed and doing its job well. Elecraft ATU's are really a
good add.
I have a small complaint about the ATU installation. It is necessary to
remove the K2's back panel, which also partially covers the bottom. This
includes having to detach the power transistors, which is something of a
problem. Those transistors are installed with thermal pads attached, and
several small pieces of hardware. It's not a simple process detaching and
re-attaching these transistors properly. The only reason you have to go
through all of this is to install a 2 pin male connector at P6 on the RF
board. I think that connector should be part of the K2's construction
whether an ATU is definitely planned or not. It certainly would simplify
later installation of the ATU, and the cost of the 2 pin connector has to be
only a nominal amount. It just doesn't make much sense to me that you would
not istall this part when you build the K2.
There was only one instance when I thought I had a construction problem.
That came during the "Preliminary Tests" procedures on P. 13 of the
instructions. During the procedure where you check to make sure all the
relays are functioning, I got a nice, clear clicking sound on everything but
N1 and N2. But when I exited the menu, and then cycled between antenna 1
and antenna 2, the relays were clicking appropriately. Now they all click
when I cycle through using the ATU menu setting. Not sure why this
occurred, but both antenna positions are working fine now, and I don't see
any problem around K17 and K18. Hopefully I haven't overlooked anything.
So, now I will go do some A/B testing between the two K2's. They sound very
similar to my ear. Interestingly, both seem to max out around 12 watts.
They both are a bit anemic on audio output, but it is adequate. QSK is
superb, and I've gotten very nice audio reports. The K2 was an excellent
radio in 1999, and it still is today. Heck, I'm ready for "SO2R" operation!
Dave W7AQK
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