There's one easy trick I learned a while back.
Actually add solder to each end of the R or C
to be removed.  This creates a larger thermal
mass that doesn't cool and harden as quickly,
and gives you time to get the other end melted
too.  Then the part slides right off.

As has been recommended before, practice first
on some junk pc board with SMD parts on it.
Really easy technique.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom AK2B" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod


>
>
>
> At 09:48 AM 8/21/2008, Jim Denneny wrote...
> >I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX
> >performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small,
> >surface-mount resistors.
>
> Chip-quick (
> http://www.chipquikinc.com/newsletters/cq_new_june_2004.htm ) is
great
> for doing SMT rework. It's a low melting temperature alloy, which
you
> use like solder. It mixes with the existing solder to make device
> removal easy. It doesn't take much.
>
> Although I am a big fan of ChipQuik you should try it on an old PC
board
> before you try it on something that might break your heart if you
fail.
> ChipQuik can send a part flying (along with a trail of molten
ChipQuik) if
> the part has been tacked down with an adhesive and requires a little
> pressure. Once you get the hang of it, on a multipin IC, it can be a
life
> saver. I don't think I would use it on a resistor or cap though. I
would go
> with the single iron back and forth or the two iron method.
>
> Tom, AK2B
> -- 
> View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740797.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
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