Well, I think I was going to do all mine in one go because Matt had said he did them all. But my original thought was to do one at a time to be sure each was working. So I'll go back to the 1 piece at a time..
didn't Johnny Cash write a song about that? :-) -- I am told I talk in shorthand and then smudge it. - J.R.R. Tolkien (1892 - 1973) On 7 Apr 2009, at 15:55, Matt Zilmer wrote: > I'm with Ron on this, although I did a set of 8 mods all at one > sitting. K3 #24 started life as a K3/10 kit and over time I've > nickel-and-dime loaded it up almost to maxed out configuration. It's > been apart almost as much time as it's been sitting in the shack > running. But probably no one beats Ron's 100-cycle record... > > The hardware (ELX) is very robust and overdesigned; same with the ME > hardware - panels, screws, etc. You won't gork anything up by > disassembling the K3 if you do it corectly - no matter how many times > you open 'er up. Disassembly and reassembly actually gets easier over > time. This is true both subjectively and objectively. > > Just be sure you have the proper tools and follow the take-apart and > put-together instructions. > > The idea someone had about doing only one mod at a time is a good one > because it lets you check the results before moving on to the next > mod. However, I'm not that patient... :) > > 73, > matt W6NIA > K3 #24 > K2 #2810 > > On Tue, 07 Apr 2009 07:41:42 -0700, you wrote: > >> ...how many times do you want to strip down the rig with >> the risk that implies to fastener failure, static damage, scratches >> etc? >> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 >> >> ------------------------------------------------ >> >> However, the K3 was designed to be worked on easily! My K3 has been >> apart >> many, many times, sometimes all the way down to the RF board. The >> number >> assembly/disassembly cycles is easily approaching 100 times over >> the past >> two years. I've had no fastener failures, no connector problems, no >> ESD >> failures, no scratched panels, no issues of any sort.* >> >> Wayne specifically ordered the build sequence to provide for one-at- >> a-time >> option installations for exactly the reason Fred mentions. The kit >> assembly >> manual does include preparing the K3 for adding several options to >> minimize >> the work needed later. For example, if you're building it with the >> 100 watt >> KPA3 option, you put in the rear (KPA3) shield during initial >> assembly. If >> you're building it and installing the subreceiver (KRX3) option, >> you install >> the auxiliary DSP board in the front panel assembly during initial >> assembly. >> >> >> There are other examples of such preparatory work, all covered in >> the kit >> assembly manual, as specifically ordered by Wayne to avoid >> complicating >> troubleshooting should there be a problem at some point while still >> minimizing the amount of work needed to add each option. >> >> Ron AC7AC >> >> * Monitoring this and the K3 support reflector, the only issue I've >> seen >> brought up by builders is when some over tighten screws or use the >> wrong >> size/type screwdriver, causing their drivers to "cam out", >> sometimes putting >> small scratches on the screw head. That's avoided by tightening the >> screws >> as described in the assembly manual and being sure you use a >> screwdriver >> that fits the screw snugly. >> ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
