Bob,

You are being too picky - the cores are not conductive.  The only thing 
to be careful of is shorted turns.  I normally tin the leads all the way 
up to the core unless there is a reason to leave an insulated lead (as 
there is on the KXB3080 LPF toroid L2).

If you are using a flame, be careful you do not overheat the copper, and 
often the residue from a flame will leave a deposit that is difficult to 
remove and the solder will not adhere to it - so use only enough heat to 
melt the insulation and no more (do not stick the wire directly into the 
blue part of the flame).

Try the solder blob method, it is easier and more clean - use a wide tip 
on the iron so it will hold a reasonable blob or solder and turn the 
iron temperature up to 800 deg F or more (lower temperatures can lead to 
frustration and long times before the lead is tinned).

73,
Don W3FPR

flashan...@aol.com wrote:
> For my first several toroid windings, I have used a Bic lighter flame to  
> burn off the coating on the wire tails, followed by a sanding with the  
> supplied P180 sandpaper.  I noticed it can burn up the wire fast and one of  
> them 
> lost the coating up to the core.  Should I recoat, especially  where the 
> lead may touch the wound toroid, like the horizontal RFC11?  What  is a 
> suitable recoat for the wire?  Or am I being too picky?
>  
>   
>
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