I saved this originally posted by Ron, AC7AC of this list, I found it very 
informative, in that " a picture is worth a thousand words" ...thanks  Ron

http://emtech.steadynet.com/rm/tinning_200_l.ram

Tom WB2QDG
K2 1103



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Toroid Wire Coating


> Bob,
>
> You are being too picky - the cores are not conductive.  The only thing
> to be careful of is shorted turns.  I normally tin the leads all the way
> up to the core unless there is a reason to leave an insulated lead (as
> there is on the KXB3080 LPF toroid L2).
>
> If you are using a flame, be careful you do not overheat the copper, and
> often the residue from a flame will leave a deposit that is difficult to
> remove and the solder will not adhere to it - so use only enough heat to
> melt the insulation and no more (do not stick the wire directly into the
> blue part of the flame).
>
> Try the solder blob method, it is easier and more clean - use a wide tip
> on the iron so it will hold a reasonable blob or solder and turn the
> iron temperature up to 800 deg F or more (lower temperatures can lead to
> frustration and long times before the lead is tinned).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>> For my first several toroid windings, I have used a Bic lighter flame to
>> burn off the coating on the wire tails, followed by a sanding with the
>> supplied P180 sandpaper.  I noticed it can burn up the wire fast and one 
>> of  them
>> lost the coating up to the core.  Should I recoat, especially  where the
>> lead may touch the wound toroid, like the horizontal RFC11?  What  is a
>> suitable recoat for the wire?  Or am I being too picky?
>>
>>
>>
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