On Monday 05 September 2016 01:14:34 Andy Pugh wrote: > > On 5 Sep 2016, at 00:16, Gene Heskett <ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote: > > > > o someplace in the #200 to #4990 map numbered map we can use for our > > own uses, there ought to be room to declare a private, nv storage > > area for each of the "canned' cycles use, without impinging on a > > neighbor. > > The interpreter doesn't "use" the #PARAMS at all. It echoes some > internal state to them, but never reads them. > > And the issue here is different. It comes down to which letters of the > alphabet don't currently have a meaning if used on a g-code line with > a G76 in it.
This I suppose could be, but to use the spindle startup on the same line as a G76 or any of the G33's has a bad code odor to me. I always start the spindle at the set speed, issue a G4p1 for it to stabilize on the next line, do any position moves needed to get it to the G76 starting position, in two separate moves so theres no possibility of a tool crash, and the G76 with all its options on a 5th line. If its not already running from a previous cutting action. My motion.spindle-at-speed always comes from a near module IF there is an encoder. The belt and suspenders approach. The lack of an encoder on the toy mill means those commands are not on its menu. I need to fix that, but the %$#^ gears are nylon. But it hasn't a big enough pony motor to pull a 4-40 tap anyway without pecking at it. Toy mill has 200 watt toy motor. :( I've had plans for quite a while to put the 400 watt motor I took out of the 7x12, on top of the toy. , running it with the same rebuilt controller used now as the fix of replacing a crappy hexfet with one from a dead computer psu reduced its heat rise by about 100F, but I'd throw the whole box away and use a timing belt drive with a sliding plate for a quick change gear change. With a much wider gear change. About a 4/1 stepdown for low, and a 1/2 or 1/3 step up for pcb or wood carving. Some guy used to make a 3 speed kit for it, but I was 5 years too late for that party according to Chris Woods at LMS, so I'd have to make my own. Perhaps when this Sheldon is making swarf again? Todays project, since the little monster is on the disabled list, is to widen the gib cutaway on the bottom of its saddle so a wider gib strip can be used. All 3 are shop made and neither of the front ones actually fits the machined for it area on the bottom of the saddle. Because that tilted the gib with one edge of it sitting 50 thou higher, the thru bolt from the top is bent and the threads don't fit which is why it needs a much longer wrench handle than the OEM wrench has. So I'm going to make that flat wide enough for a full length strip that is wide enough to actually function as a gib. And replace the bolt but its made out of pure un-obtainium so it will have a hex head, or maybe even an Allen cap screw. Whats in there is not wide enough to reach under the bed lip properly according to the wear pattern on these which is considerable. That would reduce the localized psi causing the wear under cutting forces. A full length brass bar, if I can find one, and shim for fit like the rear one is. With the rack out of the way, I can make both of them a lot wider. And both front and rear should be wider IMO. They are narrower than whats in the little monster right now. If I can source it, a couple feet of .375"x1.25" brass bar seems like the ticket. Thanks Andy. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Emc-developers mailing list Emc-developers@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-developers
