I agree with you Glen that it is always better and less expensive to
purchase off the shelf than to build your own. Why reinvent the wheel?
But at some companies the procurement system is such that people are
almost forced to build their own if they need it quickly. Or buy bits
and pieces to build your own and the system allows it. But buy it all at
once as an off-the-shelf unit and the system balks. A case of the tail
wagging the dog.

   Dave Cuthbert
   Micron Technology


From: Glen Watkins [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2004 1:23 PM
To: drcuthbert; [email protected]; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Turntable design/construction


Speaking as a manufacturer of tables like the ones described here, and
reading all of the various comments, I have to wonder how much money is
really being saved building one in the garage over purchasing of a ready
made system that is guaranteed to work, includes a warranty, and has
people ready to support it when (and if) something breaks. Not to
mention electronic controlling systems with GPIB interfaces, etc.


From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2004 1:48 PM
To: [email protected]; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Turntable design/construction

How about a Formica layer on the wood to prevent the billiard balls from
denting the wood. Or, instead of that, make the bottom layer of plywood
some nice oak plywood.

   Dave Cuthbert
   Micron Technology


From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chris Maxwell
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2004 11:47 AM
To: IEEE EMC-PSTC GROUP
Subject: RE: Turntable design/construction


Races for a "cue ball bearing carousel"...Hmmm...

There are probably a million ways to skin this cat.  May I recommend the
following:

Obtain pieces of plywood that are as big as the outside diameter of your
race, allowing a couple more inches for the outside of the race itself.

For instance, if your race is to have an outer diameter of 2', get (or
cut) pieces that are about 2'6" square.

Mark one piece with two concentric circles.  One circle for the inside
diameter of the race, one circle for the outside diameter of the race.

You will need to stack a couple (or few) of these pieces in order to get
the proper thickness for the race.  For instance, if the billiard balls
are 2" in diameter, stack two pieces 3/4" thick in order to get a nice,
1-1/2 inch thickness, which leaves 1/2" of billiard ball diameter
protruding for your "ball bearing" surface.

So...stack your pieces up with the marked one on top and a coating of
yellow glue between them and screw them together with regular old wood
screws on a grid of about 4" to 6" in each direction.  Pick screws that
will connect all of the pieces together without protruding too far
through.  Make sure that you don't put screws on the circles that you
drew.

Buy, borrow or steal a jigsaw and cut the inner circle. (You just need
to drill a hole in the waste area to start the blade) (Leave the line as
a guide for a belt sander or file).  Then cut the outer circle.  You
should now have the inner and outer sections of your "race".   Sand,
file...whatever to get the circles smooth enough to do the trick (I have
fallen in love with "microplane" files.  They work like a cheese grater
and smooth up stuff in a hurry)

Now all you need to do is figure out how to pivot the table on your race
(maybe a rod up through the middle) and what to put under your race to
support the billard balls.  Epoxy on a piece of plywood (as Ed
suggested) may be a good idea  The nice thing about it is:  you can make
the support disposable.  For instance, if your epoxied plywood gets worn
out after a while, remove your race pieces from it, gather up your cue
balls and put the whole shebang on another piece of plywood (or whatever
you use for support)

The billiard ball idea for bearings is a hoot!  I'm just now trying to
figure out an excuse to use this idea in my home shop.

Frustrated woodworking EMC engineer,

Chris Maxwell
Nettest

PS, after going through all of this...I beg to ask the question.  Does
your test setup have a ground plane?  If it does, a metal carousel under
your ground plane is sort of a moot point.  If not, then the billiard
ball idea sounds pretty neat to me.

PS # 2... If you decide to try the "lathe-like" operation that Ed Price
suggested...A 1/4" lathe parting chisel would work the best.  You may
get some nasty splinters/kickback/other annoying repercussions if you
use a regular wood chisel.  Definitely wear good gloves and eye
protection...if not a chain mail suit!!!


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