Roger:
 
The actual depth of the thread is not really important. It is the angled 
surfaces width that is. That is why measuring with 3 wires is the most 
accurate. The wires only touch the angled sides of the thread. Actually there 
is a formula for figuring out the best size of the wires as well. But if just 
comparing threads, just use an appropriate size wire-meaning you want the 
contact point close to the middle of the angled depth.
In the machine shop I worked at we would measure the spindle nose thread with 3 
wires - machine a thread gauge (same as the spindle) confirming it's size with 
the 3 wire method then would use that to test fit the internal thread. we would 
stamp the gauge and keep it safe for next time!
 
Of course if you have something handi that fits the spindle you could use that 
to test fit while making the thread gauge-then you would not need to measure at 
all-if you are careful. It all really depends on how good a fit you need and 
how much time you want to spend and what you have for tools!
 
Cheers
Chris Morley



> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> Date: Fri, 29 
> Jun 2007 11:23:36 -0500> Subject: [Emc-users] Lathe Threading> > First of 
> all, thank you developers for EMC and thank you John Kasunich > for getting 
> the m5i20 threading working. I loaded the pre 2.1.7 version > and built it on 
> my pc, the threading worked first try, I only had to > change my old 
> latch-index to index-enable and then tested it out, I now > have a lathe pawn 
> with threads!> > In wondering about setting up to cut threads, I thought 
> perhaps I could > set my threading tool as if it came to a shap 0 radius 
> point and thread > the full depth from that imaginary point. I drew a 60 
> degree point in > AutoCad, drew a line through the point, then applied 
> different radius' > to the point. For a .008" radius cutting tool, there was 
> .008" between > the tool tip and the line representing point, for a .0156" 
> radius, there > was .0156" between the tool tip and "point", and so on. The 
> tool tip > radius equaled the gap between the peak of the radius and the 0 
> radius > point.> > So, I was wondering if I used a threading tool with a 
> .008" radius, > could I take a light test cut, measure the radius, add .008" 
> set that as > the X position of that tool, then thread to the full thread 
> depth. This > would put the imaginary 0" radius point at the full thread 
> depth and > actual point .008" out from the full thread depth. This procedure 
> could > be adapted for whatever tool tip radius you were using. If a test cut 
> > wasn't practical, you could use feeler gages to set the tool, as long as > 
> you knew the tool tip radius. Or perhaps there is an easier way I'm > 
> overlooking :-)> > I plan to try this out, perhaps I could learn how to 
> measure with the 3 > wire method and see how close the threads came out. My 
> goal is to come > up with a method that will give me the right thread depth 
> with minimal > trial and error. I have a project of machining a back plate 
> for an L&W > dividing head, the thread is 2-1/4 10tpi. I dread test fitting 
> the > dividing head to the back plate!> > Roger Neal> > > 
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