On Tue, 2012-10-09 at 12:03 -0700, craig wrote:
> Thanks all for several interesting ideas.   I am currently reviewing 
> responses.
> 
> most of the equipment and the control software for ball pick and place 
> from several bins of balls has been designed and built and tested, but 
> is not yet mounted on the machine or tested all together.  I think the 
> difficult part of pick and place is done.
> 
> I have considered the following approaches to glueing balls into the 
> cavities.
> 
> 1.      a. dispensing a hot melt glue into cavities (exact method to be 
> determined)
>            b.  placing balls where desired (possibly only partially in 
> the indentation)
>            c1. pressing down on the balls with a heated plate or iron  
> (more efficient and elegant)
>            c2. heating in oven then pressing down.  (less equipment)
> The only obvious problem seems to be dispensing hot melt glue onto the 
> cavity walls.

Don't forget ultrasonic welding:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasonic_welding 

If there were already a bead of hot glue in the cup or on the ball, the
joint can be heated ultrasonically.

> Using  equipment made for reprap experimenters might work if I can find 
> a clear hot melt glue in the thin diameter form factor.
> Moving small rods of material seems easier than variable viscosity liquids.
> Dispensing the small ammount needed (aprox .01 - .02 cc) seems much more 
> difficult using much larger diameter glue sticks.

I would tend to use a normal glue gun, then add a stick pusher/puller. 

The ball picker that also rotates could pick up a ball, pass it to a
glue dispenser or glue gun and rotate a bead on the joint area, then
place it in the cup. A UV cure adhesive might be handy and might use an
automatic syringe.

> 2. dipping the boards
>       The problem is surface clean up.  The wood surface should remain 
> appealing without coating the ball tops with anything.
>      if dipped  and dried before placing balls.  The surfaces could be 
> sanded after drying.  What liquid clear adhesive  can I activat after 
> drying, method?
> 
> 
> 3. dipping the marbles
>      How can one remove the glue from the top surface of protruding 
> marbles without causing problems to the surrounding wood surfaces?

I like the rubber ball idea mentioned earlier.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pad_printing 

> 4. I will give some thought to dispensing and smearing liquid adhesives, 
> or heated hot melt adhesives with brushes or flaps.
... snip

-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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