The parts sold as the kit are just the motion control portion.  The 
support structure is part of the flexibility that is up to the end 
user.  A sturdy base that doesn't grow and shrink with humidity is 
needed, but you don't need to weld and you don't need a 6' X 10' granite 
surface plate.  Most people will build a machine base (perhaps 
incorporating machine guarding and dust collection enclosure) from 80/20 
or Misumi aluminum extrusion.  Design it to be rigid and to resist 
torsional flexing.  It doesn't need to be optically flat.  Many people 
will build it using precut pieces (Misumi is particularly good for 
accurate and repeatable pre-cut lengths) so it should be square when 
assembled, but your floor won't be level so use machine base feet to 
level the machine.  Null the spindle runout with shims, and then have 
the router itself machine a spoil board so the top surface is flat 
relative to the spindle.  If you're not using a spoil board, another 
trick is to put legs with machine base levelers every two feet and use a 
dial indicator to level the top of the bed to the spindle.  It's not 
quite as tedious as it sounds, and the commercial CNC routers aren't 
infinitely rigid either so they'll need the same sort of leveling tricks.





On 04/21/2015 08:15 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
> Perhaps my sights are set too high here, but I have looked at this -
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/261855407885  - as well, but it looks a bit flimsy
> on the X axis to me.  Also, how ever do you get the thing from twisting?
>
> I find it hard to understand how you weld up your own frame and get it flat
> and square, unless you have the right tools to do so.
>
> I cut a lot of 12"x12" material into little pieces, so flatness and
> rigidity is quite important to me.  I want to stick a piece of material on
> the bed and be able to have the part heights come out within 3 thousanths
> or so, assuming the material has a flat bottom.
>


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