If and when you succeed in removing the nut. I have had some similar problems re-installing a ball nut. The provided tube just didn't provide sufficient pressure to get the thing started. What ended up working in my case was to use a piece of rubber hose slipped over a wooden dowel (all snug fitting together so nothing slipped) to retain the balls while starting the nut.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Gene Heskett" <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2015 4:55:17 AM Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Have major problem. ball screws out of nut for starters. On Saturday 27 June 2015 04:21:35 Marcus Bowman wrote: > On 27 Jun 2015, at 08:55, Gene Heskett wrote: > > On Saturday 27 June 2015 02:29:56 N. Christopher Perry wrote: > >> Got a collet block? Clamping the screw with a collet, and maybe a > >> piece of 800 grit emory paper, is the first thing that comes to > >> mind. > > > > Spindle is R-8, and I bought a full kit of collets in fractional > > inch, I'll have to see if one of them fits a 16mm screw. If not, or > > I can't hold it tight enough, I'll see about the superglue on the > > pads idea, and an hour or so's heating of the lash adjuster nut with > > the hot air gun. 800 grit I don't have, but 600 wet-r-dry I have > > several sheets of. > > > > Since the head is off, I could use the spindle if I could figure a > > way to lock it solidly. The pin Grizzy supplies as a spindle locker > > does NOT fit the pin hole for spindle locking at all well. Way the > > heck too small a tip, and too long too. I feel a session on the > > little mill, making a half circle spanner might be worthwhile. Or > > even making a copy of their $90 spindle lock, I'll need it anyway. > > > > Thanks Christopher, the idea might be just what the Doctor ordered. > > I'll see w/o the sandpaper first, since if it slips, its the top of > > the threads that would get marred. If theres room, it just now > > strikes me that a few wraps of alu foil might be a traction helper. > > > > Does _anyone_ have an idea where replacement teflon seals might be > > sourced? The one it pushed out is pretty well mangled. > > > > Thanks all. > > > >> N. Christopher Perry > >> > >>> On Jun 26, 2015, at 5:39 PM, Gene Heskett <[email protected]> > >>> wrote: > >>> > >>> Greetings all; > >>> > >>> I've had a heck of a time putting the Z screw, some of which may > >>> be my own fault, and some David Clement's, who sold me the screws > >>> on ebay and vanished. Sorta. I found a message where there were > >>> instructions to dl the instructions, but they are behind a login > >>> that he didn't supply a username or passwd for, and his phone > >>> number is "suddenly" out of service. > >>> > >>> Then 1-411 can't find a David Clements at 6330 N 15th St, Phoenix, > >>> AZ 85014. From the USPS Postage Paid label I saved. > >>> > >>> Short of snail mail, I am locked out of a way to contact him. > >>> > >>> Any way, the nut is big enough that it cannot be inserted into the > >>> post and then turned to face the correct direction to connect it > >>> with the Z slider. So I used the same plastic sleeve to hold the > >>> balls that one must use when installing the Y screw. But while > >>> that works for horizontal positioning, it is NOT large enough to > >>> keep the balls within the normal trackage in the nut, allowing > >>> then to run down and against the teflon seal, so when I screwed > >>> the bolt back in, those caught below the recycle guides, those > >>> little red plugs, went on down and forced the teflon seal about > >>> half out of the recess, and wound up dropping about a dozen balls > >>> into the post. Those I have corraled with a retriever magnet, all > >>> of which went on thru a 2" square hole in the bottom of the post, > >>> some on the chip tray, but more scattered about on the floor under > >>> and behind the stand. So now I have 2 problems, one being a pile > >>> of magnetised balls, which will NOT do, and the nut is one way, > >>> can only be turned to climb up the screw toward the top cover and > >>> thrust bearing. > >>> > >>> So, next is to back off & remove the adjuster nut at the top of > >>> the bearing so that the screw can be partially unscrewed, thread > >>> end below the top recycle guide, so that the balls can be > >>> re-introduced to the nut below the recycle guide. At least I think > >>> thats how it should work. > >>> > >>> I think now the loose bolts holding the nut to the nut carrier may > >>> have been a clue, because there is room, even with the grease zerk > >>> on the rear of the nut installed, to slip the nut bracket into > >>> position and fasten it to the slider, then bring it to the top of > >>> its travel & lock it down, then insert the nut AND screw, > >>> assembled from the top, and using long allen wrenches, put the > >>> bolts back in. A right Pain in the Ass but doable. If I restart 2 > >>> opposing bolts with one of those spring clip retriever thingies, > >>> then the bolts to the slider can be removed, and it all pulled > >>> back to the top of the slot where wrench access to the bolts from > >>> the top would be considerably less of a problem. > >>> > >>> Unforch, I now have the far end of the screw in a 5" vice, with > >>> about 5/16" of hard white maple as jaw pads, and the vice > >>> "snugged" up enough to crush the maple to the bottom of the ball > >>> grooves. And I still cannot move that locking nut. Its turning > >>> in the maple in the vice. > >>> > >>> So I assume it has some sort of thread-locker juice in it, but the > >>> color doesn't ident it to me. Faint, very faint, line of blue, > >>> maybe. > > Blue, or blue-green usually indicates Loctite (Henkel-Loctite now, I > believe). It might be worth trying some of the Loctite solvents > mentioned here: > http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/solvent-loctite-186460/ > Given that the available surface area is small, the blue Loctite can > be removed with a little heat (less than you might think) and/or > solvent; see here: > http://www.ridemonkey.com/threads/loctite-removal-solvent.199368/ In > my experience, it depends largely on the amount of Loctite used, and > the area of contact, but a limited amount of heat does work. Threads look to be about 10mm, and the locknut is crowned, a good 7 or 8mm of threads engaged. I'll give the heat a bit of time when I can chuck it in the spindle and lock the spindle. > If you > are lucky, the parts may not have been terribly well degreased and > (unless they have used the works-in-greasy-conditions grades) may not > be as well stuck as they might have intended. > Right now its not moving, and I'm guessing it slips in the maple at less than 20 lb/ft. > Can two other ball nuts be used as lock nuts? Intuitively, I think the > answer might be no (insufficient internal friction), but someone else > may have tried this already. > > Can you remove the ball return tube (if it's the external type) and > flood the inside with a Loctitie solvent? Doubtful, the stuck locknut is on the far side of the thrust bearings. I do have acetone, I buy it by the gallon as a solvent. I am surprised they haven't raided me looking for my meth lab. :( We've got some ideas now that might work tomorrow. I tend to get too close to the trees and can't see the forest. :) > > Marcus > Unforch no Marcus, they are internel, using the little red/orange plugs as recirculation guides. Those I haven't succeeded in finding a removal method. Else I would have just poured them out and restuffed them. > >>> So now I'll have to figure out a way to heat it hot enough to > >>> release that. I can find about 750F with my hot air rework > >>> station but with the mass of that screw, being in good contact > >>> with the thrust bearings, and them with several ounces of 1/2" > >>> alu, it will take quite a while, and maybe even a box to contain > >>> the heat well enough. > >>> > >>> Anybody got a better idea how to grab the screw, without damaging > >>> it, than what I've just described? Because of the steam in a > >>> propane flame, I'd druther use the rework wands dry heat. > >>> > >>> Or maybe a line of superglue at the maple/steel junction? But > >>> that stuff is hell to completely remove once set. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Monitor 25 network devices or servers for free with OpManager! OpManager is web-based network management software that monitors network devices and physical & virtual servers, alerts via email & sms for fault. Monitor 25 devices for free with no restriction. Download now http://ad.doubleclick.net/ddm/clk/292181274;119417398;o _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Monitor 25 network devices or servers for free with OpManager! OpManager is web-based network management software that monitors network devices and physical & virtual servers, alerts via email & sms for fault. Monitor 25 devices for free with no restriction. Download now http://ad.doubleclick.net/ddm/clk/292181274;119417398;o _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
