Greetings all; To those working in wood, I found a solution to the dried up and can't get it out of the tube, Elmer's brand of colored wood fillers, in this case Mahogany. Its the best I found so far in terms of not shrinking loose when it dries. But my tube was getting so stiff I could get it out anymore.
It occurred to me that I was cleaning up my fingers after working it into a crack, quite well with a wet paper towel. Hm, as Yoda would say "water soluble it is." So I cleaned the dried stuff out of the cap, and off the nozzle and out of the plastic threads in both, washed them both so the plastic threads worked well again, screwed the cap on tight, and stuck it nose down in a bucket of water overnight. It was a little juicy this morning but soon expelled that and started outputting filler easier than when it was new! So I have learned to store my wood filler, face down in a container of water. I also needed to extend the slots on the corner edge of the lids to make room for the tails of the ebony keys I made a bunch of, so I made a plate for the big router, with a maple boss on a sheet of poplar every 90 degrees around its base, and drilled the boss for a 2" sheet metal screw which locks the router base into the poplar base, with the ability to jack it a 1/16th inch in all directions to center it. Then I made a couple maple blocks to be glued & screwed to the bottom of the poplar sheet, but about a fat 1.5" apart. Glued some 3/8" strips around two more smaller blocks to serve as adjustable pads when the larger blocks were drilled with a .151 drill, which lets a #8 screw be used for an adjuster after its tip had been dulled, and the spot where the small drill came thru expanded to about a .175 drill so the small block is trapped by the tip of the dull screw but loose. That worked well, but then it was obvious I need some additional "legs" sticking down to keep the router from tipping. About a 6" hangdown & 1/16" clearance to a lid panel side. Nice solid white ash to the rescue. I just cut 2 slots about 2" long that are, using a 1/4" 2 flute mill in the router, a very snug fit on the keys which are about .253" thick. And they are exactly where I set the pads to center then. Thats good for a BWG right there. But since I damaged the slots somewhat trying to cut them by hand, I am now waiting for some of that wood filler to harden up. I did the first lid all by hand, and its butt ugly in comparison. Touring Home Depot the other day, I stumbled over a 6" wide roll of 220 grit sandpaper, except it said "lasts 15x longer". Grey, translucent plastic backing I had to cut with a box knife to get s 2x6 sheet off the end of the roll. A week later its made tons of sanding dust, and its still cutting pretty good. And I can't clog it regardless, not even with ebony, which is a death sentence for normal sandpaper. Amazing stuff. I still cannot cut that plastic without sissors(sp?) or a sharp knife. Wrinkle it? It flattens right back out and goes right back to work. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Some mill pix are at: Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene/GO704-pix> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
