On Thursday 10 December 2015 11:55:15 Dave Cole wrote: > On 12/10/2015 10:43 AM, Mark wrote: > > On 12/10/2015 10:19 AM, Gene Heskett wrote: > >> On Thursday 10 December 2015 06:42:26 Mark wrote: > >>> On 12/09/2015 03:51 PM, Gene Heskett wrote: > >>> > >>> <snippage> > >>> > >>>> Touring Home Depot the other day, I stumbled over a 6" wide roll > >>>> of 220 grit sandpaper, except it said "lasts 15x longer". Grey, > >>>> translucent plastic backing I had to cut with a box knife to get > >>>> s 2x6 sheet off the end of the roll. A week later its made tons > >>>> of sanding dust, and its still cutting pretty good. And I can't > >>>> clog it regardless, not even with ebony, which is a death > >>>> sentence for normal sandpaper. Amazing stuff. I still cannot cut > >>>> that plastic without sissors(sp?) or a sharp knife. Wrinkle it? > >>>> It flattens right back out and goes right back to work. > >>>> > >>>> Cheers, Gene Heskett > >>> > >>> Gene, > >>> > >>> Got a brand and name of that sandpaper? I've been using the 3M > >>> Gold paper for years, but I'm always on the lookout for better > >>> sand paper. Bamboo clogs up sand paper pretty good too. Does it > >>> come in finer grits than 220? > >>> > >>> Mark > >> > >> This too is a 3M product, marked P220 in a burgundy ink on the back > >> side of the grey plastic film in reversed letters about 3/8" high > >> so you read it from its cutting face.. And in characters about 1/8" > >> high between repeats of that, > >> > >> LASTS 15X LONGER LN3 +3 safety symbols in 1/4" circles > >> FOLD. ROLL. SHAPE. one for ear muffs,glasses,respirator > >> > >> On a cardboard core, 4.5" wide, wound diameter 2.5", medium grey > >> color, a bit lighter than a Kodak 18% card, overall. It was the > >> only roll on the shelf so I've no clue what other grits it might be > >> available in. Fairly thin, I'd guess and it doesn't say, that > >> there's 10 feet of it on the roll. I don't keep receipts but ISTR > >> it was about a tenner for the roll. > >> > >> Has a piece of pale chartrues masking 3/4" tape 2" long binding the > >> end of the roll, but I expect that would be any color 3M has a > >> surplus of. And that describes everything I can see with the roll > >> on the tray beside my keyboard. I do not now recall if it had a > >> protective overwrap when it was sitting on the shelf. Probably > >> because it would have had a UPC barcode on the wrapper. > >> > >> Like you, I would break hands putting the money in them if I could > >> find it in finer grades. 600 would the cats meow, and 1200 would > >> make this junk mahogany I'm playing with into wood porn. The way > >> this stuff cuts, I'd guess you could go from a 150 on the RO > >> sander, to this stuff on a small black of flat wood, skip the 320 & > >> go to 600, then 1200 for a mirror finish. > >> > >> I always air hose the surface to dislodge the dust from the wood > >> pores, then try to wipe on enough finish to fill the pores. Done > >> right, it rolls in the light like a hunk of tiger eye, my favorite > >> stone for a bolo style necktie. > >> > >> This time starting with a coat of teak oil, kept wet for about > >> 20-25 minutes (can says 30 but its too hard to wipe at 30 minutes) > >> then wiped dry with a couple big gobs of Scots paper towels, leaves > >> a dull but quite penetrating & surface hardening foundation for a > >> glossy wipeon, give that a day to cure, then start wiping on minwax > >> gloss polyurethane, about a coat a day with a light rub of 0000 > >> steel wool for traction for the next coat, 2 coats sometimes but > >> that makes a long day for me. Done right, just the lid takes about > >> 10 days, 5 on each face. I may even try laying on the last coat > >> with an air brush. > >> > >> I made a kitchen table top for a junk "Bakers Rack" that came with > >> a veneered and warped hunk of OSB for a top, out of sweet gum 15+ > >> years ago, and it still looks good, air brushed it all the way. > >> Laid it flat so I could get it wet but no runs. As a learning > >> experience it was good but tedious as I was doing it on the open > >> but roofed back porch & had to clean the dust nibs off before > >> re-coating it again the next day. Now I have a heated & AC'd > >> garage that didn't exist then. And fewer dust nibs as I have a 20" > >> box fan with a hepa filter to keep the air in there fairly clean, > >> gets turned off long enough to change the filter when I can't see a > >> light thru it, running for about 5 years now, pretty good for a $20 > >> box fan IMO. It actually blows toward the table saw top, which is > >> also used for a work table by tossing a sheet of tool box drawer > >> liner rubber about 1/8" thick down on it. > >> > >> Cheers Mark, Gene Heskett > > > > Thanks Gene, much appreciated. Bamboo is nasty stuff to sand, just > > like your oily exotics. Gums up the paper something fierce. The 3M > > Gold is actually pretty good paper, but if this stuff lasts longer, > > it's well worth it. > > > > Mark > > I wonder what the flooring and cutting board makers use to sand > bamboo? > > It has become a lot more popular. > > Dave > I doubt they even sand them. Sharper planer blades, probably carbide chipped spiral heads, are, long term maintenace-wise, a heck of a lot cheaper than tons of sandpaper for a drum sander when it comes to making dimensioned product. If I don't get an chipout around a knot, or have a blade thats been dinged & leaving a mark on the wood, I often go straight from the planer to applying finish unless it lays around and grows hair.
I bought a Craftsman 13" planer 10+ years ago, and snears promptly discontinued the blades. I had ordered 2 sets & when they weren't delivered a year later, I gave somebody in parts hell, and reminded them of the federal rule that parts MUST be available for at least 5 years after production ceased. I bought a grizzly horizontal wet stone and made a slider that let be sharpen my own blades at the correct edge angle. They are sharp, way sharper than their blades ever thought of being because this wet stone is a 4000 grit, 9" diameter, 2" thick, block of red rouge. Wet, its a cutting fool. So I'd run the 2 sets of blades I had over it and was amazed at the finish I got when they were installed. Along about the time I was using up the 2nd set again, in comes the 2 sets I had ordered, nearly 3 years before. And I need to tune these up again, but I still have one set of new ones, and my card was never charged. Talk about an outfit whose left and right hands have never seen each other, Snears is an excellent example. However, the sharpening is putting the blade holder bolts closer to the wood such that I have had to grind away the high corners to keep them from marking the wood. The OEM rounded head Allen bolts were so tight, no Allen wrench I owned would move them and I had to go in with a diamond wheel in a Dremel, and cut crossed slots in the head so it would relax enough to become removable. And its a 5mm Metric bolt, takes a 5m wrench too, I have never stumbled over them or I'd buy another pocket full. Std cap bolts have to have the corners of the hex cut back about 90 thou. But boy do I have a ton of hours on that planer. Poor design, tables too low so it sniped the last 2", but a coat of white formica on the tables raised it almost enough, that combined with raising the table about 50 thou on both ends, and snipe is now a very rare occurrance. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Some mill pix are at: Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene/GO704-pix> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
